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There was an unsettling sense of déja vu to Vladimir Karaleev’s collection. Perhaps like popular Berlin organic chef Florian Kliem, Karaleev believes in working with his ingredients until they’re all used up. Orange wool crepe, assorted blue hues and textured naturals from past seasons returned to Karaleev’s runway, once again folded, twisted, inset, left raw-edged and diagonally cut.
His strongest advances for fall were found in the deluxe cashmere coatings on women’s jacket/vest/tunic hybrids, as well as a reconstructed bustier and camisole. The men’s tailored T-shirts, one with a built-in scarf/lapel and another accented with a lapelled scarf, also were standouts.