PARIS — Caution prevailed at Première Classe, the accessories trade show that ended its four-day run March 16.
Retailers, at the show before war broke out, had already made tough choices on budgets and purchases for next fall. As a result, the show suffered a 14 percent attendance drop, with 10,482 visitors passing through the salon.
Athena Helbing, assistant buyer at Fred Segal Flair, snapped up colorful tasseled scarves featuring peace and love symbols by Tait & Style.
"They’re very timely," she said. So was her budget for the store’s two doors in Santa Monica, Calif. "My budget is a little less [than last year]," she said. "We’re not buying as many choices. If we like one [item] we’ll do one color instead of three."
While the open-to-buy was on par with last year for many, most were more cautious about their selections.
"I’m being very careful about what I’m choosing," said Valerie Desmurs, buyer for jewelry store Jess James in London.
Kaori Honda, buyer for Tokyo accessories store Under The Garden, looked for shoes and accessories. Honda snapped up slouchy velvet handbags by Martine Sitbon. The style, at $280 wholesale, was a bestseller at Sitbon, according to Yannick Leleu Federici, Sitbon’s commercial director for accessories. Prices are converted from the euro at the current exchange rate.
Manufacturers, meanwhile, noted that buyers were taking a lot of time before placing orders.
"Lots of buyers are coming back [to see manufacturers] two or three times before they order," said Scott Wilson, owner and designer of his namesake jewelry firm.
As for trends, brights will top the agenda next fall.
"I have seen a lot of pinks and browns, light colors but not bright," said Carla Borontini, owner of Florence, Italy-based boutique BP Studio.
"Pink is very, very hot," said Robert Tateossian, managing director of the London jewelry firm Tateossian, adding that military-inspired identity tags strung on pink suede chord at $26.50 were among the season’s bestsellers.
Fur, which has been making a comeback on catwalks in recent seasons, has also been showing up on accessories. Designer Dominique Petris said that buyers were ordering her collection of totes in lambswool, rabbit and leather, at $122 wholesale.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion