In perhaps the perfect end to the long fall season, Paris Fashion Week delighted buyers and press alike. "It's been brilliant," said Barbara Atkin, fashion director at Canada's Holt Renfrew. "There was excitement in the presentations and in the clothes. We're buying more and more out of Paris." Retailers also noted the Paris season "sparked with vivid colors, expert tailoring, innovative knits and strongly individualistic, yet still very salable, fashion statements," WWD reported. Standout shows included those of Dior, Yohji Yamamoto, Viktor & Rolf, Nina Ricci, John Galliano, Miu Miu, Lanvin and Balenciaga. During the eight days of Paris Fashion Week, there were 71 million page views on Style.com, which was a 58 percent jump over last year.
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Nabbing the top spot once again this season is Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel. With fallen snow as a floor covering to his runway, Lagerfeld packed the collection with tweeds, stocking caps, penguin sweaters and even some ice skates. He paired short coats with jeans and skirts with flat, functional boots, and focused on knee-length dresses.
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"It's the girl on the street with her jacket, her pants, her scarf," Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière noted, referring to his fall woman. But in addition to his understated pieces, he showed spicier frocks, like the shrunken jackets, confetti tweeds and textured coats. "It added up to the most complete and wearable collection Ghesquière has ever done," said WWD.
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Offering a diverse, yet low-key lineup for fall, Marc Jacobs sent out chic pullovers, skirts with feathers at the hem, belted jackets and divine party dresses — all done up in a rich palette. As for the handbags, "Jacobs offered a monogrammed bonanza," said WWD, including "quilted patents, plastic-coated sheepskin and embossed felt."
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John Galliano focused on the sensual, exotic woman for Dior's fall — he went heavy on embellishments on his bustier dresses, slim suits, trapeze coats and eveningwear. He also played with a variety of materials, from silk, suede and leather to croc and fur. The collection moved up an impressive five spots from last season's rankings.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)