A little bit country, a little bit rock 'n' roll -- that's the mood designers were in, sending out wearable looks that were playful and ruffled, finely tailored and biker-girl chic.
Dana Buchman: With every season, Dana Buchman introduces more and more details that move her collection into increasingly fashion-y directions. Take this season's leopard sightings, which emphasized the designer's playful side. They were seen on a straightforward car coat, in the ruffles of a ladylike blouse and in the swingy pleats of a gray skirt. This subtle glamour was the word, in fact, throughout the lineup in which fur accents and sprinkles of beadwork abounded. And the shrunken brown leather jacket — with sleeves pushed up just so — had a definite cool factor. This is good news for her customer, who relies on the label for a round-the-clock look. And as for that all-important 9-to-5 time frame for the busy career girl, Buchman sent out plenty of finely tailored suits — always her strength — done in classic plaids and pinstripes.
Luella Bartley: Only in Luella Bartley's mind could the fictional Holly Golightly ever mingle with rockabilly punks. And only Bartley could pull it off with both chic and cheek. Backed by the real-life rocker actually known as Holly Golightly, fall was a rabble-rousing ode to dressing on the sexier side of nice. Bartley's cool Brit sensibility called for a second-skin fit to button-down shirts and jeans. She layered on the proper sweaters and cardigans — one embroidered with "darling" — that she loves so much, as well as smart plaid coats and shrunken jackets that ran the gamut from tony to biker. But she clearly had the most fun tinkering with the iconic Little Black Dress-and-pearls idea, tweaking it slightly a few different times until completely revisioning it into a witty, little black skirt dotted with pearl beads.
3.1 Phillip Lim: Was all the preshow hype leading up to the 3.1 Phillip Lim show worth it? You bet. Forgoing the catwalk caterwaul, Lim opted for an informal tableau vivant with guests weaving through the 20-model presentation — a perfect setting, since his clothes need to be seen up close. Take, for example, the fine gold rope beading trimming a brown shearling coat, or the delicate pleated ruffle appliqués running down the sleeve of a trés chic antique silk blouse, casually belted with a loose sash. This was a collection of polished pretty, but Lim added a sense of contrast with leather vests and band jackets, as well as studded footwear and gold-chained bags with a touch of biker chic. All the while, he kept the looks refined without being too precious. Even the string quartet playing Prince's "Purple Rain" lent to the counterpoint sensibility, what Lim called "classic with a bit of madness." Boyish bib dresses, raw denim and oversized knits rounded out the fare, giving a little something for everyone — and enough to keep retail coffers busy this fall.James Coviello: It's another trip down history lane at James Coviello, and this season he's sending his woman to the Interwar period of 20th-century England, when aristocratic lasses and bohemian artists were uprooted from their households. Thus, Coviello's girl is one on the move, but, as the runway's moody backdrop of abandoned furnishings and stacked luggage announced, she's no jet-set madam. Her wardrobe is prim and country nostalgic — plaid wool gauze dresses, patchwork hand-knit shrugs, embroidered silk chiffon camis and short-sleeved ruffled blouses — in a quiet palette of mauve, olive and plum. And while the simpler fare proved oh-so-chic — a lace knit top appliquéd with a charming bow or a silk chiffon cami accented with an organza corsage — the collection stumbled when it came to the heavy-handed striped taffeta shrugs and fake fur-trimmed jacquard skirts.
Jovovich-Hawk: "Tasha had to leave to go to DKNY," apologized Milla Jovovich at her West Village town house, where she and Carmen Hawk presented their Jovovich-Hawk collection. But one model's early departure was no reason for hand-wringing, since Jovovich had enlisted a slew of her friends, including Trish Goff, Anouck Lepere and Lou Doillon. For fall, the duo channeled independent women through time, christening pieces after individuals, i.e., the Dorothy Parker — a black crepe jacket with a white pointed collar. "We went from women in myths to female detectives with moxie in trenchcoats," noted Hawk. But after all is said and done, this team knows what girls — both their friends and otherwise — love to wear. Their gorgeous printed silk dresses and blouses closely approximate your most treasured vintage find, without the stains. But they also go beyond the old-is-new approach with a fresh take on a speckled brown tweed cut into sweet mini shifts, as well as coats with leather shank buttons or jaunty, well-tailored waistcoats — perfect pieces to liven up those aforementioned silk charmers.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews