NEW YORK — Did you catch the fashion whirlwind that blew through town last week? If not, here’s a roundup of the hip, beautiful and the downright wacky looks that came down the American runways.
Custo Barcelona’s Custo Dalmau made a few additions to his kaleidoscope-colored collection with lots of outerwear — quilted nylons, faux shearlings and fleece. His idea of evening consisted of sequined Ts and long T-shirt dresses that are appropriate for the MTV/TRL generation. As usual, however, he overdid the head-to-toe prints. That’s too bad, because if he had paired them with solids — like his denim pieces — it would have worked.
Natalie Chanin and partner Enrico Marone-Cinzano did up the celebrated Bowlmor Lanes high school gym set for a prom for their Project Alabama show. Their models — real people — pranced and posed à la cheesy prom photos, wearing elaborately quilted Ts, fitted blazers and poufy ballskirts. Following the party circuit, Zaldy designed for the club kid — skintight corduroys, a citrus-colored shredded dress with crystal details and a sexy strapless mini with gathers. A bit costumey, yes, but tempered with wearable pieces such as oversized-button coats, a zip-front gown, lamb vest and the paneled skirts. And there was almost too much to digest at Y&Kei, despite the guiding hand of Matt Damhave. They hit upon ongoing trends such as cropped cargos, cozy sweaters, aviation influences and fur, fur, fur, and their passion for details — lace, embroidery and paillettes — shone through. But the droopy satin pants, heavy back pockets and embellished denim just didn’t look current.
And finally, meet the newest members of the downtown cool club. Monika Kowalska bowed her A Detacher line, which she’s been selling quietly but steadily from her Mott Street store for the last four years. She did beautiful chunky knits paired with slim skirts, sexy gathered dresses and smart outerwear, including a chic rabbit capelet and padded cotton V-neck coat. To temper this romantic feeling, she added crossed belts or brass chain details. And Christopher Deane’s Christopher Crawford and Angela Deane offered their Valentine to the holiday with heart and dove motifs incorporated into rich red, pink and teal fabrics. But overall, there was less romance and more hip streetwear with a Mod and punk vibe.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast