Peter Jensen The backstory: Jensen's past muses include Nancy Mitford, Tonya Harding and Helena Rubenstein, whose influences translate into collections of simple dresses, shirts and trousers, often adorned with quirky prints. The Danish designer honed his skills at embroidery and tailoring schools in Denmark before earning a master's degree at Central Saint Martins. Buyers' buzz: "His collection is both accessible and intellectual. We love how he [uses] his own prints, and combines nontraditional materials with classic silhouettes," said Carol Lim, an owner of Opening Ceremony, New York.
Marios Schwab The back story: Schwab's body-conscious dresses have been turning heads since he introduced his collection last spring. He's since worked with Nineties motifs, including structured bustiers and thigh-skimming skirts in faded nudes and muted florals. Buyers' buzz: "Damn, this boy can cut a sexy dress! At Browns, we haven't been this excited about a young designer's potential for a long time," said Yasmin Sewell, director of buying at Browns.
Richard Nicoll The back story: The Australian designer is quickly building a client base that includes Björk and Kylie Minogue, not to mention Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who bought his entire finals collection after he graduated with a master of arts from Central Saint Martins in 2002. He's best known for his use of men's wear fabrics and couture details. Buyers' buzz: "I'm a big fan of his — and he does very well at the store. The pieces are witty. We get lots of young girls wearing his shirts as dresses with thick tights and flat shoes," according to Laura Montagu, buyer for European women's wear at Bluebird in London.
Sinha-Stanic The backstory: The label designed by Croatian-born Aleksandar Sinha and Brit Fiona Stanic was signed by the Italian manufacturing group Aeffe after winning second place at Fashion Fringe in 2004. They were nominated for Best New Designer in the most recent British Fashion Awards and are known for their laid-back, sophisticated style. Last season, they injected a younger, punkier feel into the collection with biker jackets and utility-influenced pieces. Buyers' buzz: "Their cuts are really innovative — but you don't need an instruction manual to put the clothes on," observed Coco Chan, buyer for contemporary designer collections at Harvey Nichols. "Their clothes aren't pretty-pretty, but they're still feminine — and the collection is very London."Nathan Jenden The backstory: The British designer, who's been creative director at Diane von Furstenberg for six years, is crossing the pond to show his third rtw collection under his own name in his home city. Past collections have included razor-sharp jackets and dresses sweetened with feminine frills and bows. Buyers' buzz: "I think his collection is more suited to London Fashion Week — and I think it's great that he's moving it to London. He knows the fashion business so well, and I think it's good that he's bringing some of that New York spirit to London," said Julie Gilhart, fashion director at Barneys New York.
House of Holland The backstory: Former teen magazine fashion editor Henry Holland caused a stir last season with his Day-Glo "Fashion Groupie" T-shirts — which he sent to designers as a prank. Each one is printed with a rhyming couplet in honor of London's designers. Some examples: "Get Yer Freak on With Giles Deacon," and "Scream Uhu, Gareth Pugh." This season, it's the models' turn to be immortalized in verse. Buyers' buzz: "The shirts recall the heady heyday of Katherine Hamnett and the "Ban the Bomb" protests…but I love how House of Holland keeps it about fashion. ‘Stop Acid Rain' becomes ‘Cause me pain, Hedi Slimane.' How could one not love House of Holland?" asked Jay Bell, men's wear buyer for Barneys New York.
Danielle Scutt The backstory: Scutt has been a one to watch ever since she was given the Chloé Award by Phoebe Philo while still in fashion college. The Central Saint Martins master of arts graduate showed in September with Fashion East. Think Eighties rockabilly meets Helmut Newton: asymmetric belted swimsuits, microminis and ruffled denim jackets. Buzz: Although her clothes have appeared in magazines including British and American Vogue and British Elle, she's still not stocked anywhere, and buyers are reserving judgment.
Todd Lynn The backstory: Formerly Roland Mouret's right-hand man, Lynn has rapidly made a name for himself as a men's tailor with a rock 'n' roll edge. His clients include U2, the Rolling Stones and Marilyn Manson, and he recently turned his hand to women's wear. Buyers' buzz: "Todd is a highly talented tailor with great commercial awareness. He has a great understanding of luxury through simplicity — and it's all injected with his unique rock 'n' roll signature," said Yasmin Sewell, director of buying at Browns.Gary Harvey This season, designer Gary Harvey is injecting new life into second-hand clothing with a display of four couture gowns at The Exhibition during London Fashion Week. The show, "Recycled Icons," features gowns fashioned from castoffs including old Burberry trenches; vintage Levi's 501s; baseball jackets and military camouflage jackets.
"At the end of each season, millions of garments are suddenly deemed aesthetically redundant: Some get recycled through goodwill shops, many just get left in the back of the wardrobe or thrown out with the rubbish," said Harvey, a former creative director for Levi's Europe and now a design consultant. "This collection shows one way to change this waste. My aim is to create something beautiful that questions current perceptions of second-hand clothing."
Harvey's show will be part of Estethica, the eco-fashion zone that made its debut at The Exhibition last season. It showcases clothing labels that are fashion-forward and eco-friendly, fair-trade-focused or organic. The Exhibition runs Feb. 12 to 15 under the tents at the Natural History Museum.
Christopher Kane The backstory: One of London's fastest-rising stars, Kane, a Scotsman, is a design consultant for Donatella Versace's ready-to-wear, couture and accessories collections. He's best known for eye-popping fluorescent colors and curvy, body-hugging shapes à la Hervé Léger and Azzedine Alaïa. Buyers' buzz: "The collections have so much energy and color — and he's already doing signature corset work. Also, we love the hot, sexy dresses," said Michael Fink, vice president and women's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Gareth Pugh The backstory: Sunderland-born Pugh is becoming known as the enfant terrible of the London scene. He made his debut at Fashion East in 2005, and since has become the go-to designer for outlandish — and highly impractical — ensembles of bodysuits, PVC, latex and inflatable checkered foil jackets. Buyers' buzz: "I hope he experiments with rtw this time," said Michael Fink, vice president and women's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Louise Goldin The backstory: The recent Central Saint Martins grad unveiled her intricate knits at last season's Fashion East group show. She worked with Lurex and metallic yarns to create a collection of bold micro minidresses, swimsuits and leggings. Buyers' buzz: "Aggressive, sexy knitwear isn't something that you see every day. Her pieces are very graphic, but with a soft element, as they're made from really gorgeous crochet and macramé," noted Alexandra Stylianidis, head of buying at Browns Focus.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)