Shortly after shutting own his designer men ’s wear business, John Bartlett had some bitter words of advice for today ’s fashion supernovas —those young stars making headlines overnight. “The whole collection business model does not make sense anymore,” Bartlett said.”There ’s so much pressure to keep up the image of a healthy business.If I were a new designer today,I would not start a collection.I would focus on one classification of garment.”
This story first appeared in the December 26, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Another case of sour grapes?Not exactly.
While New York showed a lot of new talent during the past year, there ’s a strong likelihood that not all of fashion ’s rising stars won ’t find themselves falling down just as quickly in the coming months. Daryl Kerrigan and Miguel Adrover have each failed once,but are back with a stronger will to survive.But they are facing a crowded playing field with an ambitious roster of hungry talent,including the Proenza Schouler design team of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez,Esteban Cortazar,Heatherette and Zac Posen,all of whom face the sophomore challenge of proving they ’ve got what it takes to make a real business.
Can they all survive?Not likely,and certainly not without a good fight.