At DKNY, Donna Karan took beautiful advantage of vintage... Behnaz Sarafpour owned Tiffany’s for a morning... Zac Posen tried for the big leagues... and, at Cynthia Rowley, whimsy was the word.
DKNY: “I saw a little scrambled egg thing go by. I mean, people are so happy.” So noted the sage Ingrid Sischy at Pastis on Sunday morning. And it wasn’t just the egg or mimosa things that caused the glee. Rather, the crowd that packed the downtown eatery was utterly charmed by Donna Karan’s terrific DKNY presentation, at which 24 divinely primped mannequins enjoyed brunch, lounged about on the bar and at tables, even preened in the ladies’ room — and looking divine at every turn.
“Let’s have fun,” says DKNY’s design overseer Jane Chung of the attitude. “DKNY should be optimistic.” And was it ever — a happy pastiche of color, texture and decoration, styled by Patricia Field with just enough discretion to keep the collection’s aura fresh at this moment of near-ubiquitous vintage-y eclecticism. The line offered a giddy trove of find-yourself goodies. Thus, even those inanimate, nearly identically coiffed babes projected distinct personalities: jaunty tomboy in a metallic-shot shorts suit; conservative careerist in a scallop-edged jacket and denim skirt, and any number of girly-girls in concoctions of flimsy dresses, peekaboo lingerie, shrugs, sleek coats and enough old cameos, pearls and pendants for 10 grandmas. “I’m so proud of them all,” Karan said of her DKNY team, promising that their work will have a dramatic counterpoint today, when she shows a Donna Karan collection she described as “industrial” in a minimalist palette of gray, white and silver.
Of course, fashion is about more than cyclical swings from fluff to stark and back. DKNY’s blonde-bobbed diners were accessorized to the nines. And, if much of their jewelry was of the true vintage sort, their new Forties-centric shoes — platformed, colorful and bejeweled — should keep fashion girls stepping lively through spring. Still, everyone knows that LVMH loves a handbag, and Donna clearly wants in on the magic. Thus, when it came to flaunting her fab offerings that mesh function with flair, her mannequins were no dummies.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)