Philip Treacy: Chapeaux are some of the great prop devices of the haute couture. Dream-weaving designers use them to enrich their theatre du mode, while more grounded types rely on the feathered or veiled flourish to up the intrigue of real-life...
Philip Treacy: Chapeaux are some of the great prop devices of the haute couture. Dream-weaving designers use them to enrich their theatre du mode, while more grounded types rely on the feathered or veiled flourish to up the intrigue of real-life clothes.
Either way, hats are a big part of the fun, so who could blame Philip Treacy for time and again engaging in his own runway escapades? For his show on Wednesday night, Treacy took his cue from his location, Pink Paradise, a strip club off the Champs-Elysées. He served his guests cocktails and semi-dressed his models in little nothings — lots of lacy black undies — the better to showcase those witty millinery concoctions while working the poles a bit, warming them up for the real strippers set to work the next shift.
Treacy started off with a Pop Art moment, but his Campbell’s Soup hat was more than an ode to Andy. It celebrated Naomi Campbell herself, who turned up to wear it. He followed with a Brillo Pad spray and a banana. But just when you thought his whimsy would never leave the kitchen, out came more than a few lips — an almost trend — and a photographic celebrity parade. While Elvis and Fred Astaire danced full-figure atop models’ heads, most other icons merited life-sized faces — Marilyn Monroe, Tina Chow —each chin balanced perfectly on another person’s forehead. (Only Liza Minnelli got the full cap treatment.) Then, in the spirit of bonnet art imitating life, Naomi closed the show in a hat featuring a likeness of Naomi wearing the soup can.
Très amusante? Sure. But if you believe that hats have a validity beyond couture runways and the very limited market of cute, get-away-with–anything London girls — and one assumes Treacy does — why not take so golden an opportunity to make the case? By reveling only in the cartoonish side of millinery charm, Treacy’s shows may be all wit and no wisdom.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion