LONDON — It hasn’t been the best of times for trade show organizers Emap Fashion. They announced the closing of their young streetwear event 40 Degrees, shortly after their last show in August 2002. Launched in 1996, 40 Degrees had always...
LONDON — It hasn’t been the best of times for trade show organizers Emap Fashion. They announced the closing of their young streetwear event 40 Degrees, shortly after their last show in August 2002. Launched in 1996, 40 Degrees had always been a strong contender on the U.K. trade show scene but after 13 shows, the organizers decided the show had run its course.
"We created a new genre for fashion trade events worldwide and the show has proved to be a successful platform for many brands," said Steve Newbold, managing director of Emap Fashion. "This is a market that we know incredibly well and we instinctively feel that now is the right time to move on."
Emap Fashion looks set to concentrate on the Pure and Premier women’s wear shows (both scheduled for Feb. 16 to 18 at London’s Olympia Exhibition Center), their joint venture with the Igedo Company. They are launching Pure Spirit in February, a space for young, vibrant and creative fashion, to run alongside Pure. (Exhibitors have not yet been confirmed). Although there has been no specific reason given for the closure of 40 Degrees, word has it that the show’s popularity has dropped during the past few seasons.
"The main aim of any brand at the shows in general, is to attract and secure new business," said a spokesperson for the trade show Moda UK, also scheduled to run Feb. 16 to 18 at the NEC Exhibition Center in Birmingham, England.
"Often success is quantified by the number of new accounts signed up during the event. At Moda UK, we try to make it as easy as possible for brands to meet as many bona fide buyers as possible." The future of Face Up, Emap’s exclusive show for contemporary, top-end labels thatlaunched in February 2002 and ran alongside 40 Degrees, is also uncertain. At press time, no news on the future of Face Up could be provided.
Moda UK, whose organizers proclaim it to be "the U.K.’s only national mainstream women’s wear event" has had no cause for complaint. They saw their show more than doubled in size from its debut event in February 2002 to a second showing in August this year, representing more than 13 countries and more than 6,000 brands.Waiting in the wings, however, is a new trade show for mainstream street labels. For Attention Of the Marquee, organized by Brand Progression, will launch Feb. 16 to 17 at the British Genius Site in Battersea Park neighborhood. It is the sister show of Brand Progression’s To Be Confirmed, a juried trade show that launched four seasons ago in February 2001, which invites only niche exhibitors, buyers and press, with labels including Fred Perry, Millcrate Athletics and One True Saxon. This show has had such an extensive waiting list of exhibitors wanting to take part that the company decided to open FAO to cater to more labels.
"Some brands show their premium and diffusion labels at TBC, but their mainstream labels, which aren’t right for the event, also need a platform," said Gary Bott, a spokesman for FAO. At TBC, where exhibitor numbers are kept tight at 60 to 100, no marketing, such as flyers, posters and campaigns, is allowed and each stand has only one to three garment rails. "The aim is to focus solely on the product," Bott said. FAO’s confirmed exhibitors for February include labels Komodo, Pepe Jeans, Traffic People and Red Tape.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)