The $812.5 billion shapewear business has been thrust into the role of image maker. Whether it’s a tank top with a layer of support lining, a long-leg bike pant with heat-sealed control panels or a brief with engineered stomach control, shapers are being worn every day by women and men of all ages and sizes.
The growing demand is being generated in large part by a celebrity culture that flaunts idealized bodies — often constructed — on the red carpet and in movies and music videos. In addition, an increasing number of product options, high-tech fabrics and applications make shapers pliable, lightweight and comfortable.
“Everybody I work with, from movie stars to models, wears shapewear and about 99 percent of them are a size 0 or 2.…It just gives a feeling of security and physically makes a person stand straight and be more conscious of their posture,” said stylist Phillip Bloch, who has worked with Sandra Bullock, Halle Berry, Salma Hayek and Michael Jackson.
“Shapewear is so hot now because it fits like a second skin as opposed to armor or a chastity belt…it’s also not an insult anymore if I ask, ‘Should I bring shapewear?’ [They used to say] ‘are you saying, I’m fat?’ Now they say, ‘Oh, yeah, bring the shapewear,’” added Bloch, who last month signed on with ABC as a contributing correspondent for a series of interviews with celebrities about their favorite charities called “Cause Celeb with Phillip Bloch.”
“I think many people live their lives vicariously through celebrities and the public knows they wear shapers because the celebrities say they do all the time,” Bloch said. “People want that movie-star look. It’s affordable and there isn’t the stigma of cosmetic surgery and the paranoia. It’s like, ‘I put on my lipstick, my perfume and my shaper, and I can take it off whenever I want.’”
The shapewear segment is especially popular in two age groups: women 40 and older who have purchased basic pieces in the past and are now buying a variety of specialty products, and teens and young women who are learning about the options and benefits of shapers that they wear as fashion items, such as camis with built-in support.
The appetite for pretty, more upscale shapewear in fashion colors and high-tech fabrics and applications is reflected in part by the migration of shoppers who buy basic product at mass merchants and brand-conscious consumers who shop at department stores, according to The NPD Group, a research consultancy. From June 2010 to May 2011, the biggest increase was generated by department stores, which posted a 3.5 percent gain in shapewear sales, claiming an 18.3 percent dollar share of the market. On the other hand, mass merchants posted a 0.7 percent decline with a 24.4 share. The average price across all retail channels is $15.89 compared to $14.36 in the same year-ago period.
Meanwhile, women who are small, medium or plus-size are all wearing shapers for the same reasons: to look better and feel better about themselves.
And to get trimmer-looking abs, more men are wearing control tops by brands such as Rip’t by Yummie Tummie, Under Armour, Spanx for Men, Equus-Men and Ardyss International.
Just as beauty products are used to enhance skin and hair, shapers are worn to help smooth the silhouette and make clothes fit better for a younger look.
Gwyneth Paltrow, Jessica Alba, Oprah Winfrey and Queen Latifah have spoken publicly about wearing Spanx shapers at the Academy Awards and the Grammy Awards. Shapers and related corsetry are also worn on stage by Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Miley Cyrus, which also helps eliminate the stigma once attached to wearing what used to be called a “granny girdle.”
“Body image is an issue and it needs to be addressed, no matter what the size,” said Randall Christensen, costume designer for “Dancing With the Stars” on ABC. “If we can get away with it, we’ll just use a Spanx shaper, but the fantastic advantage we have is we can customize the shapers, which give the figure and the dancers a bit of an edge…about 50 percent of the dancers need shapewear. The biggest challenge was Marie Osmond, who lost 40 pounds at such a rapid pace that her figure would change from one week to the next. But interestingly, it’s the men who are more particular about shapers.”
The latest generation of microfibers, which offer fashion and function in ultrasheer or matte and shine opaques in lighter weight deniers, have also helped turn shapewear into a fashion star. New featherlight microfibers from companies such as Invista, Meryl, Creora and Radici enable designers to produce shapewear with a delicate lingerie look while retaining the control and support of old-fashioned power net.
Among the most recent developments are shapewear pieces that are microencapsulated with caffeine in an effort to reduce cellulite, including the iPant by Wacoal. Lytesse, a French brand, features shapers microencapsulated with aloe vera to moisturize the skin. But even Lycra spandex, which has been marketed since the late Seventies, is still in the mix in the modernization of shapewear with its Lycra beauty fabric certification program.
Key shapewear brands include Spanx, Playtex, Bali, Flexees by Maidenform, Sassybax, Cass, Rago, Va Bien, Body Wrap, Yummie Tummie, Slimpressions, Shatobu, Squeem, Cupid, Shapeez, Grenier, Dr. Rey, Nearly Nude, Cosabella Breathe, Julie France Shapewear and Wacoal, a bra specialist for which shapers is the fastest-growing product segment.
Janie Bryant, costume designer for the AMC series “Mad Men,” which is set in the Sixties, said shapewear is key to her creative choices.
“It’s one of the reasons I love designing for ‘Mad Men.’ Shapewear offers so many possibilities,” she said. “I use both vintage and modern shapers…most of the time I use a brand called Rago because they still make [vintage-looking] girdles and longline bras.
“What’s interesting is there’s been a whole resurgence of buying shapewear because of media exposure and more product options,” she added. “Older women are buying shapewear pieces again, and younger women are learning which pieces are right for them.”
Novelty shapers are particularly popular, said Maureen Stabnau, senior vice president of merchandising at barenecessities.com, citing her best-selling brands like Spanx, Body Wrap and Dr. Rey.
“Shapewear thongs are selling very well online to younger customers,” she said. “No matter how young the customer, she wants a smooth line and is really aware of panty lines.”
All of this has had a positive impact on business. For instance, Bob Vitale, executive vice president of Wacoal America, is forecasting a 34 percent increase in shapewear volume this year.
While women who are already thin might turn to shapers for some enhancement, the strides in shapewear technology and broadened product choices have been a real boon for the plus-size market.
“The demand for shapewear increased total intimate apparel business in 2010 by 80 percent, and it’s all new business for us,” said Meredith Mastropolo, lingerie and shapewear buyer at plus-size retailer Ashley Stewart. “The customer sees value in shapewear. She comes in and says, ‘I need that item.’ If it makes her look better, she feels better and she’ll buy it.”
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)