NEW YORK — Yeohlee loves to talk fabric. But for spring 2004, her collection is full of textiles that have a language of their own.

“This collection is about duality,” she said. “The fabrics have characteristics where both the front and back is used. Beyond that, there is a lot in the way of color contrast as well as contrasts in structure and drapability.”

The three examples shown here each use fabric to convey a different concept. The first, a silk and cotton blend from Italian mill Canepa, is used on separates that can also be worn as a suit. Four squares of light and dark gray are mixed together on a vest, while four rectangles are used for the jacket. The slim pants — which sit on the waist, as opposed to low-slung, because, as she said, “In these difficult times, I think it offers the wearer a sense of security” — are constructed using just one shade of the cloth. The contrast creates both a play on shape and geometry, but the fabric also promotes a structured look. “I love the weight of this fabric,” she said. “It’s very finely woven.”

A more fluid look can be seen in a black silk satin organdy mini skirt made of two fabric squares that are dimensionally layered atop one another. Courtesy of Como-based textile mill Taroni, the silk complements the shape perfectly, she said. “This fabric is so light, it floats.”

For her lightweight wrap coat, Yeohlee also turned to Taroni for a multicolored, checkered silk with gold metallic highlights. “I really like that the checks are woven into the fabric instead of constructed. It’s more subtle that way.” The look, she added, is very drapey, yet structured. “But it still looks soft.”

Yeohlee will show her collection on Sept. 15 at the Bryant Park tents.

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