Yohji Yamamoto has always found fascination in the masculine-feminine divide, and for spring he played both sides against the middle with a collection that was more finely honed than those sent out in recent seasons past. His dandyish black coats were cut lean in velvet or in draped jersey that fit as easily as a cardigan. Loose pants lent a certain urban swagger, while stiff starched shirts were positively gentlemanly. When weighed down by flaps and aprons, the look didn’t work, though at its most austere, it was smart and intriguing.

Still, Yamamoto’s tailored looks had nothing on his feminine fare. For a delightful moment he went into Goth-ethereal gear, showing shadowy ballgowns and dresses paneled with pleats. These cut to the root of Yamamoto’s moody elegance without sacrificing one iota of chic.

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