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NEW YORK — This season, the New York calendar is rich with creative promise. The spring schedule is buzzing with brand-new talent as well as some designers with a few seasons under their belts who have been honing their skills, ready to show off their best work yet. “The construction of the clothes is 10 times better than anything we’ve ever done,” says Hushi Mortezaie of editorial darling design team Michael and Hushi, whose collection’s inspiration is “a modern-day Auntie Mame starved for fast fashion and fast food.”
Design team Heatherette, whose year-old collection is inspired by reclusive transgendered writer JT Leroy, will be traveling in previously uncharted waters. “A lot of times we’re known as an Eighties brand,” says Heatherette designer Richie Rich. “This collection goes from trucker to Goth. And there’s a lot more wearability.”
But fresh faces don’t necessarily equal downtown mayhem. Peter Som is incorporating the chic ease of Jacques Lartigue’s photographs of the Twenties Riviera. “It’s an uncontrived elegance where you can wear your pajama pants to dinner,” says Som.
Some of the most sophisticated new collections come from the youngest of the bunch. Just months after graduating from Parsons, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have opted for small-scale presentations before their runway debut next season time. Their line, Proenza Schouler, is an anti-downtown collection designed for “ladies, not girls,” they say.
Eighteen-year-old Esteban Cortazar, whose upcoming show is influenced by the glamorous lives of his artist father and singer mother, will be taking time off from — get this: high school — to put on his spring show. Gosh, don’t kids grow up quickly these days?
The energy injection adds up to some hot tickets for New York Fashion Week.