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YSL Puts on Shine With Lisse Gloss

NEW YORK —?YSL Beauté is out to add some gloss to its lip business. <br><br>With the launch of Lisse Gloss, its new addition to the lip gloss category, the brand is also planning to showcase the talents of its new artistic adviser for...

NEW YORK —?YSL Beauté is out to add some gloss to its lip business.

With the launch of Lisse Gloss, its new addition to the lip gloss category, the brand is also planning to showcase the talents of its new artistic adviser for makeup, Linda Cantello.

Lisse Gloss, which bows in mid-August, is designed to be a smoothing, moisturizing gloss. The keystone of the formula is the new Serilisse-H, which is intended to smooth the lips and protect them against dehydration. The compound is comprised of sericite, a clear mica, which is coated with acacia gum and hyaluronic acid. The sericite helps lips to look smoother and enhances their ability to reflect light, while hyaluronic acid holds moisture in the lips, Cantello explained.

The formula combines two other proprietary polymers: Shine Coat, which is designed to capture and reflect light with a vinyllike finish, and Gloss Fix, which is designed to add a mirrorlike shine. The result, explained Cantello, is the appearance of plumper lips, due to an optical effect from a transparent layer of color as well as a tripeptide that helps to rehydrate lips. Additionally, the formula includes Gold of Pleasure Oil, a hydrating oil extracted from the seeds of camelina. The oil has a high fatty acid content to further add moisture to the lips, noted Cantello.

“Lip gloss has become an alternative to lipstick, rather than simply an addition to it,” noted Cantello. “In formulating this collection, the aim was to have a smooth-finish, nontacky formula, as well as natural-looking colors that a woman could wear anywhere. While YSL is known as a house that does wonderful color, I wanted to try more natural shades so that a woman had every available option.”

The new gloss, which will retail for $25, will be available in four colors: No. 1, a pearlized crystal pink; No. 2, a nude shade; No. 3, a cinnamon tone, and No. 4, a pearlized spice tone. Each is in a transparent square tube with a brown top printed with the YSL logo.

“I think the gloss has great potential,” said Bettina O’Neill, cosmetics buyer for Barneys New York. “The texture is appealing — it has good coverage and good staying power, and the brand is a top seller for us.”

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Lisse Gloss will be available in 162 U.S. department and specialty store doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York and Bloomingdale’s. While the company wouldn’t disclose projected first-year sales, industry sources estimated that the gloss collection would do about $2 million in retail sales in its first year on-counter.

The new gloss and the fall-winter makeup collection mark the second round of projects for Cantello (her first was YSL’s summer makeup collection), who was named artistic adviser earlier this year. In this role, Cantello works closely with Chantal Roos, president of YSL Beauté, and Tom Ford, creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, on the house’s beauty projects. Cantello is responsible for conceiving the theme and the signature look for each season’s color cosmetics collection, drawing inspiration from Ford’s runway collection. Cantello is also charged with working with the company’s laboratories to create new textures and finishes.

“Going forward, I want to keep all of the most amazing things about the line — like the great colors — and build on that heritage, just introducing new textures and making the cosmetics more wearable and easy,” said Cantello. “Women don’t have time to spend hours on doing beautiful makeup, so we have to make it easy for them. And makeup should look like a beautiful accessory when you take it out of the purse; we will introduce things in the future that are very accessory-looking.”

In addition to her work with YSL, Cantello also sells an eponymous makeup line that was launched in 2001. While she’ll continue to work on both, she noted that she has no problems keeping them separate in her mind. “I would compare it to a fashion designer who is working on two separate lines,” she said. “Say you’re working on one for an established, well-known name with a history and a tradition, and one where you’re building awareness of your own name. That’s what I’m doing with YSL and my own line. With YSL, I work with Tom Ford and Chantal Roos to create a certain synergy between beauty and fashion, while respecting the name and history of YSL and always being true to it, as well as taking into account other people’s points of view. With my own line, it’s only about my vision, so I can take a few more risks. But in the end, I bring my sensibilities to both lines — they’re both about creating fashionable, beautiful makeup that a consumer will want to reach for.”

Lisse Gloss will be available in 162 U.S. department and specialty store doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York and Bloomingdale’s. While the company wouldn’t disclose projected first-year sales, industry sources estimated that the gloss collection would do about $2 million in retail sales in its first year on-counter.

The new gloss and the fall-winter makeup collection mark the second round of projects for Cantello (her first was YSL’s summer makeup collection), who was named artistic adviser earlier this year. In this role, Cantello works closely with Chantal Roos, president of YSL Beauté, and Tom Ford, creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, on the house’s beauty projects. Cantello is responsible for conceiving the theme and the signature look for each season’s color cosmetics collection, drawing inspiration from Ford’s runway collection. Cantello is also charged with working with the company’s laboratories to create new textures and finishes.

“Going forward, I want to keep all of the most amazing things about the line — like the great colors — and build on that heritage, just introducing new textures and making the cosmetics more wearable and easy,” said Cantello. “Women don’t have time to spend hours on doing beautiful makeup, so we have to make it easy for them. And makeup should look like a beautiful accessory when you take it out of the purse; we will introduce things in the future that are very accessory-looking.”

In addition to her work with YSL, Cantello also sells an eponymous makeup line that was launched in 2001. While she’ll continue to work on both, she noted that she has no problems keeping them separate in her mind. “I would compare it to a fashion designer who is working on two separate lines,” she said. “Say you’re working on one for an established, well-known name with a history and a tradition, and one where you’re building awareness of your own name. That’s what I’m doing with YSL and my own line. With YSL, I work with Tom Ford and Chantal Roos to create a certain synergy between beauty and fashion, while respecting the name and history of YSL and always being true to it, as well as taking into account other people’s points of view. With my own line, it’s only about my vision, so I can take a few more risks. But in the end, I bring my sensibilities to both lines — they’re both about creating fashionable, beautiful makeup that a consumer will want to reach for.”