Lightened up but still dressed up with a decidedly retro feel: That was the mood of the Yves Saint Laurent collection Stefano Pilati showed on Thursday night, one that at its best offered a polished alternative to the season’s futuristic bent.
Pilati said he wanted to chart the emotional journey from spring through summer, yet he made the road tough to negotiate. His runway was an endless, tightly packed flower bed ankle-deep in violets — just the terrain for his sky-high, double-platform shoes. Some in the audience were fixated on the models’ quivering ankles while rooting for the poor girls to pass by without taking a spill.
That distraction aside, there was much to see. Pilati opened with a graphic pastiche that ranged from tiny ginghams to huge buffalo checks. These bore more than a hint of the Eighties power woman, even without the big, side-swept coiffures: a snappy dress under a red flyaway jacket and a bold coat over skinny pants.
This focused working-woman mood then gave way to a jumble of ideas: gentle dresses with floral finishes; a dizzying psychedelic camouflage moment; a frothy gown with random posies trapped between its diaphanous, milky layers, and in a nod to you-know-who, a couple of quick smoking sightings.
Then there were the season’s requisite tricky pants, here of the droopy-drawer genie variety, of which Pilati showed more than his share.
A bit eclectic, for sure. And at times, the collection rang retro to a fault. But it still displayed a savvy evolution with clothes that should resonate beautifully at retail.
@juicebeauty, where @gwynethpaltrow holds the title of creative director of makeup, has become one of the foremost labels in the organic beauty category –– with sales on track to hit $100 million this year. What’s behind the rapid growth the brand is experiencing right now? It all started in 2005 when the wellness movement was just getting started. Read more on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty
Stay up to do date with breaking news and trending stories with WWD’s “The Essentialist.” Our newsletter delivers the top news in fashion right to your inbox. Want more info? Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
"I want to tell a story that inspires people to feel good about themselves, but also I'm making a commentary about the lack of female stories and female directors and saying this should change," said @imheathergraham on her latest project "Half Magic." The comedy feature, which the actress wrote and directed, is based on her own struggles as a woman in show business. Read @andrewnodell's full interview with Graham on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
@meltcosmetics cofounders @lora_arellano and @danabomar built their brand on a single idea: a true matte lipstick. To set the brand apart, they said they always put their customers first –– including a personalized note in each package. #wwdsummits #wwdbeauty
@moncler unveiled its latest project, #MonclerGenius, yesterday at Milan Fashion Week. The Italian outwear maker gave show-goers a preview of the monthly collections – which were created by eight designers and creative talents including Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha, Craig Green and more – that will start rolling out in the summer.