It’s time for a reality check. The hype that’s swirled around Zac Posen since he appeared on the scene five years ago seems to have obscured some basic questions about his direction.

On Thursday, two such questions sprang to mind, once the Diddy-fueled hoopla died down: For whom is Posen designing? And, is his complicated vision just too ambitious at this point?

While any girl with a nice pair of legs — and Posen seems to know legions of them — will make a splash in one of his short fringed dresses, as a whole, the collection was overdone and too often not well executed.

Where the silhouettes were good, hard-shining satin and heavy-duty jacquard took the look cheap. Those difficult fabrics should be banished from Posen’s runway once and for all. Ditto the designer-y kitsch, whether intentional or otherwise, such as gargantuan bows and stiff-as-wood ballgowns.

Posen has been out of design school for some time. He must resolve the refinement issue if he is to move beyond the “young designer” handle.


To view Zac Posen's full Spring 2007 Collection, click here.

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