Zooey, which Hartmarx Corp. acquired for $3 million in December, wants to be more than a high-end T-shirt brand.

With headquarters in Los Angeles and a design studio in Santa Monica, Calif., Zooey has expanded beyond its 100 percent Supima cotton Ts by launching yogawear as well as a men's line that is carried by retailers such as Barneys New York and Scoop. The new categories that launched this spring rounded out last year's initiatives to offer lightweight dresses in a jersey-Lycra blend and Supima cotton along with cropped jackets cut out of French terry and fleece. For fall, Zooey tripled the number of styles for dresses and jackets to include houndstooth jumpers and double-breasted coats with cropped sleeves and epaulets.

Alice Heller, who founded the company three years ago, set a goal of hitting $10 million in sales this year through 350 stores worldwide. The target is an increase from $6 million in revenue last year.

"We are investing in branding our business," said Heller, Zooey's president, who has more than two decades of experience in designing and marketing at Levi Strauss & Co., Bidermann Industries USA and Esprit. She pledged that "growth won't compromise quality and design. The product has grown and is growing up."

Zooey's designs also are evolving with fashion trends. As shoppers opt for dresses instead of jeans that pair easily with simple knit tops, T-shirt companies such as Zooey, Michael Stars, Mblem by Mandy Moore and C&C California, have been compelled to diversify their offerings.

"It's always good to evolve a line," said Karina Barragar, who buys jeans, T-shirts and jersey dresses for Madison, the specialty retailer that has four doors in Los Angeles. "The customer believes [Zooey] can do more than T-shirts."

Judging by the popular fits and cuts of Zooey's Ts, Barragar said she thinks shoppers will like the tunics and dresses that she ordered from the label for fall. "It just looked really nice and was clean, and that was what we go for," Barragar said.

Zooey's designer, Sandy Oh-Yang, said layering figured prominently in the fall collection, which allowed her to apply more details such as big buttons. In addition to jumpers and double-breasted jackets, she also created long turtlenecks with shirred waists and keyholes in the back, Empire-waisted hoodies and minidresses with button collars.Wholesale prices range from $24 to $38 for yoga apparel, including French terry hoodies; $65 to $90 for dresses, and $75 to $150 for jackets. Nevertheless, the T-shirts, which wholesale from $23 to $45, remain the company's fiscal foundation, constituting 40 percent of sales, Heller said.

Heller plans to further develop Zooey's woven business, which is represented by a single linen shirtdress introduced this spring. She also wants to offer sweater knits in the future.

"We're no longer just a Supima product line anymore," Heller said.

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