BRANDELLI’S BACK: Carlo Brandelli has returned to Kilgour. The designer, who quit as creative director of the Savile Row tailor in 2009, will return to Kilgour in the same role with a spring collection that will make its debut on Mr Porter in February.
The tailor’s new owners, No. 14 Savile Row, which acquired Kilgour in September, approached Brandelli to return to the brand, the company said. No. 14 Savile Row is owned by Fung Capital, the private investment holding of the Fung family. Separately, the Fungs are the controlling shareholders of the publicly listed Li & Fung Ltd. and Trinity Ltd.
To mark the brand’s relaunch, later this month the label will release a film on Showstudio.com and on Kilgour’s soon-to-launch Web site, kilgour.com. The film, which was conceived by Brandelli and shot by photographer Nick Knight, is an abstract piece that revolves around the idea of how the bespoke process involves building and creating layers. Tara Ferry, Bryan Ferry’s son, has created the soundtrack to the film.
While the spring line draws on a number of Brandelli’s past collections for Kilgour, the label’s first entirely new collection in four years will bow for fall. That collection will take its cues from Kilgour’s style signatures, such as the house’s one-button suit, unstructured jackets and fly-fronted shirts, in a palette of ink navy, grays, white and black.
In addition, a new home for the house will open on Savile Row in June. Designed by Brandelli, the new flagship will have an architectural feel, the label said, and will feature a concealed bespoke room. In keeping with Kilgour’s British heritage, the flagship will be fashioned in English materials such as silver granite, lime-tinted glass, gray limestone and steel.