NEW TERRITORY: Some of London’s most established designers will be shifting their attention away from the catwalk for spring 2018 and exploring new ways of presenting their collections.
Gareth Pugh, known for his rebellious streak and for experimenting with film and new technology, will present his collection as part of a film shown at the BFI IMAX theater in Waterloo, one of the largest cinema screens in Europe. The designer describes it as his most ambitious film project to date. It has been produced in collaboration with Nick Knight and ShowStudio.
“This is about choosing to present the work in a way that hijacks the mind, where the images are expanded to enveloping proportions and connect directly with the depth of feeling behind the work,” Pugh said of his decision to showcase his new designs on IMAX’s gigantic screens.”It’s an opportunity to provide a visceral, high impact experience that communicates the feeling of the collection with no holds barred.”
The designer, who used to show in Paris, has favored film over traditional catwalk formats in the past. In a talk at ShowStudio’s film awards last year, he joked about the mishaps and white lies he had to offer to members of the French Fashion Federation, to ensure that his presentation slot in the Paris Fashion Week schedule was given as much weight as other designers who were hosting runway shows.
Osman Yousefzada is another designer who has been rethinking how he presents his collections. He is also leaving the catwalk behind this season and will instead host an intimate dinner that will integrate a theater performance.
“It will be a little bit of a surprise. Shows can do certain things for you, but you go in and out and it’s all so quick. This felt fresher,” Yousefzada said.
By contrast a number of emerging names such as AWAKE, Rejina Pyo, Halpern and Natasha Zinko are moving on from the smaller-scale presentations they have been hosting and putting on their first catwalk shows.