SPACE ODYSSEY: Carlo Brandelli, who earlier this year returned to Kilgour as creative director, has unveiled the brand’s new store at 5 Savile Row. The stone, steel and granite space is unlike any other on the storied street.
The 1,500-square-foot space is spare like an art gallery — and unusually meditative.
“I wanted it to be multiuse, transparent and creative,” said Brandelli during a walk-through earlier this week.
Three Cornish granite cutting tables radiate from a chunky floor-to-ceiling pillar and hover over the gray stone floors, and Brandelli said there will eventually be cutters working on the tables. On Savile Row, they usually work on wooden tables in the shops’ basements. The new space, which also features chunky granite benches and walls made from gray limestone rendering, is virtually devoid of mirrors — there is just one placed at a right angle to the back wall.
“I didn’t want mirrors out in the open because men shouldn’t be using them constantly,” he said. The back wall is also dotted with cutout chest pieces from customers — done in Plexiglas — as a decorative feature. Brandelli said he wanted to highlight the chest piece because it is part of the DNA of bespoke men’s wear.
The store currently carries bespoke only, and will eventually house that and the new fall-winter ready-to-wear collection.
Brandelli, who also works as a sculptor, quit as creative director of Kilgour in 2009, after he and his partners sold the company to the Dubai-based JMH Group. Kilgour’s new owner, Fung Capital, wooed Brandelli back to Savile Row, and the designer said he’s now planning to “readdress the craft and styles of men’s wear from the past 100 years. I’m trying to take bespoke closer to the idea of wearing architecture. Men have a lot of straight lines to them, and suits are getting too rounded,” said Brandelli.
To wit, he has stripped back the Kilgour bespoke ones, and made an effort to elongate the silhouette, replacing breast pockets with vertical incisions, removing the buttons on jacket cuffs, fusing collars with lapels, and using an asymmetrical dart at the back, rather than a straight one.