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GIRLS ON FILM: Now that presentations are taking the form of everything from short films to online slide shows, there’s another designer to add to the “too cool for runway” list. For her entrée into New York Fashion Week on Sept. 10, Melissa Coker of L.A.-based label Wren recruited her friend Alia Raza to do a three-channel video installation starring Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Karen Elson and Sarah Sophie Flicker. The trio will be reciting lines from films like Robert Altman’s “3 Women.” Said Coker, “It adds this other dimension. You can see the clothes in a living setting.” Naturally, the three will be wearing looks from spring 2009: Elson is in a labyrinth-print skirt and asymmetrical bow top, Restoin-Roitfeld in a barely there minidress and Flicker wearing a cotton cashmere number. The cast are all intimates of Coker, who adds, “I love working with my friends, and anytime we can do something together….”
This story first appeared in the September 4, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
FRENCH ACCENT: They’ll always have Paris: Chanel plans to show its next “métiers d’art” collection of luxury ready-to-wear in the French capital come December instead of in Moscow as originally planned. A Chanel spokeswoman said the decision to nix Moscow was made in July before the crisis in Georgia as the company could not secure the venue it wanted in the Russian capital. Chanel unveiled its “métiers d’art” collection in 2002, made with the couture ateliers the fashion house owns, and has taken it on the road to Tokyo, New York, Monte Carlo and London.
SUPERMODELS: Speaking of celluloid, Scott Sternberg is adopting a multimedia approach for his Band of Outsiders and Boy by Band of Outsiders presentation on Saturday. Instead of a runway, Sternberg tapped Kirsten Dunst, Max Minghella and rapper Charles Hamilton, whom he directed in a video wearing his spring collection. The nonlinear Footage, shot in New York two weeks ago, will be projected at the presentation alongside the actual clothes. “I didn’t want to do a traditional runway presentation,” Sternberg said. “It didn’t feel like the best way to tell the story of collection.”
HICKS CHANGES TACK: Allegra Hicks has pulled out of London Fashion Week, which takes place from Sept. 14 to 19, and will instead show the collection to members of the press during a presentation at the designer’s London store on Oct. 15. Pia Marocco, chief executive, said sponsors had cut back on funding for this season’s show, a move that dovetailed with the fashion company’s plans to swap runway shows for events or installations in the near future. “Staging a show requires a lot of money and a lot of energy, and frankly that strategy is not really right for the company,” she said. “Also, London is very avant-garde, and we feel the odd one out.” Marocco said, however, that business was growing, buyers were already booked in for sales appointments in London, Paris and New York, and that next season Hicks would likely host an event in New York to showcase the collection.
PIN UP: Karl Lagerfeld may have lensed the official portraits of Gaia Repossi and Eugénie Niarchos for the launch of their Ere by Repossi jewelry line, but this season the focus is on him. The high-profile celebutantes have designed a filigree tiepin in Lagerfeld’s honor that has been also been folded into their collection. The circular pin exists in black, white, pink and yellow gold versions, as well as a full set black diamonds.
POSTAL STRIKE: Now even country bumpkins can get their hands on Veronique Branquinho’s designs — delivered straight to their door. The Belgian designer has created a minicollection for the current fall edition of French mail order giant, 3 Suisses.
SERGE SURGE: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is known for spotting young musical talent, but now the wacky designer’s self-penned tribute to iconic Paris lovebirds, Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, is to get some airtime. Mareva Galanter has recorded the duet with Rufus Wainwright for her second album, “Happy Fiu.” It’s a timely homage, with a major Gainsbourg retrospective lined up for Paris’ Cité de la Musique this October.