A boot from the Emanuel Ungaro capsule with Francesca Mambrini.


JOIN THE DOTS: Nobody could have missed the full-on Eighties factor of Fausto Puglisi’s spring collection for Emanuel Ungaro. But the creative brains behind the collection’s equally retro shoes was Italian footwear designer Francesca Mambrini.

The capsule collection comprises four pumps, an arty sandal and six boots, including monochrome fold-over heeled booties featuring graphic brush stroke prints and Ungaro’s signature polka dots. Mambrini declared the collaboration between the two houses “a perfect fit.”

“I have always considered French fashion as being the most feminine of all, and Emanuel Ungaro was certainly one of its icons. I have often been inspired by the creations of the Parisian couturier within my shoe collections,” she stated, citing a shared passion for architectural detailing and embroidery.

Mambrini, who trained as an interior designer, is a collector of Pop Art including pieces by Andy Warhol and Julian Schnabel. She draws inspiration from both art and fashion — passions inherited from her mother and grandmother. (The latter was milliner Clelia Venturi, known for creating hats for stars of the silver screen such as Grace Kelly and Sophia Loren.)

Mambrini’s eponymous label is notable for its bright yellow insoles, while its butterfly-shaped logo symbolizes the idea of flamboyant metamorphosis — the transformative power of the shoe.

In contrast to her Eighties-inflected collaboration with Ungaro, her own spring collection is more delicate in sensibility. Both the pastel color palette and silhouettes riff off artist Marc Chagall’s paintings of ballet dancers. Stiletto mules come tied at the ankle, strappy cagelike sandals combine pastel suede with python skin and other styles lace right up the leg to the thigh.

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