SCENT SECRET: Could Martin Margiela have a fragrance project in view? L’Oréal executive Patricia Turck Paquelier was spotted at the Belgian designer’s show on Monday, and sources say a fragrance, plus an eyewear license, are among the big upcoming moves for Margiela. (Margiela’s owner, Only the Brave Srl, helmed by Renzo Rosso, also controls Diesel, whose beauty license is already held by L’Oréal.) Turck Paquelier had no comment on the scent rumor. “I am invited to many shows, be it in Paris or Milan, because my business unit is known specifically for fine fragrance designer brands,” she said. “We are also good friends with Renzo, who kindly invited me to the show.” Margiela officials could not be reached for comment. Given Margiela’s penchant for high-concept fashions and Greta Garbo-like anonymity, he could write a whole new chapter in the designer fragrance business.

WHERE’S CARLA?: Those hoping for a glimpse of France’s glamorous first lady at Paris Fashion Week might have to wait a season. Sources close to Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, the pop singer and former model, say she is putting official duties first. “Maybe for the couture in July,” said one friend. “Why not? She loves fashion.” Bruni-Sarkozy is reportedly on her way to South Africa today, so she will be out for the rest of fashion week.

Riccardo Tisci not only has a new-look Paris flagship for the Givenchy brand, but also an expanded role at the French house. Tisci is extending his renovation project to the men’s department. Givenchy said Tuesday that his artistic director role would be expanded to encompass men’s wear and accessories. His first men’s wear collection will be presented for spring 2009.

This story first appeared in the February 27, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

PLAYING DRESS-UP: “It’s sort of a way of life, Yohji [Yamamoto],” actress Charlotte Rampling mused Monday night before the Japanese designer’s show at the Paris Bourse. “There’s something about the way he expresses himself through fashion which is very particular.” The polyglot actress just wrapped up a French film, “The Invisible Woman,” — “No, I’m not the invisible one, for once,” she noted — and “The Duchess” opposite fellow Brits Keira Knightley and Ralph Fiennes. The latter film chronicles the life of an 18th-century aristocrat, meaning simple black tailoring à la Yamamoto would hardly suffice. “They certainly dressed up in those days,” she deadpanned.

To Rampling’s left was artist Steve McQueen, who planned to meet Yamamoto after the show to discuss a potential project. “We haven’t figured it out yet,” he said. “But it would be great.”

Meanwhile, artist Annabelle d’Huart, who already collaborates with Yamamoto on his fine jewelry with Mikimoto, was the eldest of the models walking the runway. “It’s fun to transform in the hands of great makeup artists and hairstylists,” she said backstage. Her latest designs for Yamamoto include safety pins and necklaces.

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