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ART ALLIANCE: Designer Esteban Cortázar was among the first to identify a source of Gaia Repossi’s inspiration for the season. “It reminds me of the light drawings of Picasso; is that what it is?” he asked.
Repossi confirmed the link, adding there was also a nod to the brutalist movement and Alexander Calder, plus a pinch of Franz West. “Bright colors have been disturbing me, but since I looked at his work, I like it more,” said the jewelry designer, referring to a fuchsia rhodium ring set with matching diamonds.
Arranged like an exhibition at Paris’ Jeu de Paume with waiters serving sushi alongside Japanese-styled amuse-bouches, the presentation of Repossi’s new “White” collection drew an arty crowd Monday night. Some guests said they heard Rei Kawakubo was present, but no one seemed to see her; the mysterious Comme des Garçons designer had already disappeared into the night.
“She’s like a phantom,” one guest said.
“Rei Kawakubo is a master of art — because fashion is art,” said gallerist Emmanuel Perrotin, whose next show, called “Post-Op,” starting Saturday is to feature works by Richard Wright and Kazuko Miyamoto. “The problem fashion has today is that it’s overexposed, while in art the level of distribution [remains] exclusive.”
Michael Amzalag and Mathias Augustyniak, the graphic design duo behind M/M, divulged they would do a retrospective of their own work at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 2016. Meanwhile, Cindy Sherman’s “Untitled Horrors” will travel to Zurich next.
Sporting a cuff from Repossi’s new collection, Sherman said she liked keeping items that have left a mark on her, even if she doesn’t wear them. “I have some pieces that I saved, because they are great objects,” she explained, citing numbers by Comme des Garçons, as well a pair of Lego Sandals, which Nicolas Ghesquière designed for Balenciaga in 2007. “I actually keep them on a shelf.”
Delphine Arnault, Delfina Delettrez, Elisa Sednaoui, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Jamie Bochert and Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis were also among the guests.