PAUSING FOR THOUGHT: Givenchy said will skip its usual runway presentation of men’s ready-to-wear and women’s couture during the next round of men’s collections in Paris in June.
The French fashion house’s new artistic director Clare Waight Keller, who officially joined the brand on May 2, will show her debut collection of women’s ready-to-wear during Paris Fashion Week in October, as reported.
A complete men’s spring 2018 collection, designed by an in-house team, will be shown to buyers at Givenchy’s showroom in Paris from June 27 to July 1, company officials said. Paris men’s fashion week is scheduled to run from June 21 to June 25.
Waight Keller will show her first couture designs for the label in January 2018, the house said. Her predecessor, Riccardo Tisci, in recent years had shown his couture designs as part of his men’s runway show.
Waight Keller, whose nomination was revealed in March, has been tasked with propelling Givenchy’s roots as a Fifties couture house further into the modern age.
“She has this great ability to break the rules and innovate without making a revolution,” Givenchy chief executive officer Philippe Fortunato told WWD. “Her very focused approach will help the brand in building the ongoing momentum we have — and taking it to the next level.”
Waight Keller is Givenchy’s sixth couturier and the first woman at the creative helm, thrusting the former Chloé designer into the haute spotlight as Givenchy marks its 65th anniversary this year.
In a statement, she said founder Hubert de Givenchy’s “confident style has always been an inspiration.”
Boasting a strong background in knitwear and men’s wear — and a reputation for cutting a killer pair of pants — Waight Keller served as senior women’s designer at Gucci during the Tom Ford era, and has also worked at Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein in New York.
She joined Chloé in 2011 after a six-year stint designing Pringle of Scotland, rejuvenating its rtw and accessories business and winning largely positive reviews for her feminine-yet-gamine collections. Her expertise in leather goods, a lucrative category, could be a boon to Givenchy, which rarely featured handbags on the runway.
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