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Malone Souliers Debuts in London

American designer looks to traditional shoemaking techniques.

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A SPRING IN THE STEP: Pennsylvania-born Mary Alice Malone of Malone Souliers was a member of the U.S. Junior Equestrian team and a furniture designer before she discovered her true passion and studied shoemaking at the London College of Fashion.

Her first collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, conflated Fifties and Seventies styles. “That’s when sexy was really sexy,” she explained. “There was this beautiful minimalism, keeping a lot concealed and only revealing selectively. These days, it’s all four-way mirrors.”

She’s keen to reprise traditional techniques and craftsmanship, and said her mules feature a spring-o-later on the inner sole. “It gets rid of the horrible slapping sound when you walk,” she said of the device she borrowed from a pair of vintage shoes she found in a market. Other styles include lace-up shoe boots, pumps and closed Oxfords.

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