NEW ROMANTICS: Ahead of its move next season to a see-now-buy-now format, Mother of Pearl creative director Amy Powney hosted appointments to give press a preview of the fall collection, which will be shown on the runway in London in September.
Powney looked to the 19th-century Romantic period, and the desire of artists and poets to return to nature in reaction to industrialization, for her inspiration, making much of florals and frills.
Her favorite artist, Caravaggio, provided the inspiration for the moody darkness of the palette, his chiaroscuro technique of rendering light and dark coming through in the dramatic flowers printed on heavy satins, the artist’s Renaissance period evident in the opulence of deep black velvets and heavy golden jacquards.
The brand’s sporty DNA was evident in the great quilted zip-front coat in a lush floral satin, and in the baby pink tweed tracksuit that had raw-edge frills on the outside of the sleeves. And the brand’s signature pearls were at work on many shoulder seams, tucked in the folds of yet more frills.
Powney’s Mother of Pearl collections get stronger from season to season and, when the full collection hits the catwalk later this year, it is sure to impress.