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MIX AND MATCH: “Advanced Contemporary!” is how Muuse Projects creative director Leslie Johnsen defined the first collection she unveiled Monday for the newly rebranded Copenhagen-based cooperative label.

 

Johnsen confessed she serves more as its design director, constructing the collection’s map and defining its style, its “muse” (or avatar-like character) that defines the women the brand wants to target and then assigning products to each designer.

 

This “opening” season there are 11 of them, from unknown, freshly graduated students to young designers who have already launched their own lines, like New York-based, German-born Melita Baumeister.

 

Each receives a flat rate as well as royalties on sales of their designs, which are labeled with their own name along with the Muuse Projects brand logo.

 

Clothes-wise the 82 pieces in the collection displayed for fall-winter 2015 are mixed and matched to build a contemporary wardrobe that is slightly infused with men’s wear and military references, oscillating between easy commercial pieces, such as a red herringbone knit turtleneck worn with lean sailor pants, and more fashionable proportions. Take, for instance an army-green cocoon-shaped sleeveless zipped long jacket, boxy, paper-bag-waisted cropped pants or a pleated skirt with asymmetric panels.

 

Retail prices range from 260 euros, or $293 at current exchange, for a pair of leather-bow pumps, to 350 euros, or $395, for a black tailored jacket and 850 euros, or $959, for a voluminous wool coat.

Muuse Projects will launch an online store in mid-July. It also plans for a possible New York presentation for the spring-summer 2016 season.

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