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ON THE HUNT: Indicators of the economy’s health come in many forms, including at Thursday’s fashion school graduation runway show at the Golden Gate City’s Academy of Art University, where Abercrombie & Fitch was scouting for new employees to staff the company’s global growth, particularly in the U.S., U.K. and Australia. Craig Olman, A&F’s director of recruitment, said the retailer is being “aggressive” this year in signing up new grads for merchandising, design and distribution jobs. In contrast to a year ago “when we got the pick,” he said there’s now more competition among firms recruiting at fashion schools. “Three years from now we’re looking to go further globally,” said Olman, who at the fashion school located in San Francisco made one job offer, hired two design interns and gave $1,000 scholarships to two students. New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn presented three Council of Fashion Designers of America scholarships totaling $25,000. Among other internships granted was one for Sonia Rykiel in Paris. Rykiel’s daughter, Nathalie, president and artistic director of the house, picked undergraduate Maggie Mo Luo. “I was hesitating because you have a lot of talent here,” said Rykiel, who received an honorary doctorate from the school. Luo’s eye-catching designs were cast in black with royal blue polka dot pullovers, inspired by the luminescent beauty of oceans, paired with chunky knit and crocheted sweater coats.
This story first appeared in the May 10, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
PEN AND PAPER: Karl Lagerfeld is about to share a treasure trove: the complete writings of Friedrich Nietzsche, as the 19th-century German philosopher wanted them published. Lagerfeld and Gerhard Steidl plan to publish them in fall 2012, printing only 3,000 copies of the 12-volume set. “Nietzsche’s Nietzsche” will show the typeset writings along with all his hand-corrected manuscripts. Lagerfeld showed off photocopies of a few original pages, with dense blocks of small handwriting — some words underlined, others stricken and overwritten — on sheets of pale yellow paper. “It’s very easy to read if you understand this type of German,” he said. “I would love to publish it in English, but it would take five to seven years to translate it.”
Speaking of handwriting, Lagerfeld has a brand new pen: his first design collaboration with S.T. Dupont, the Paris-based maker of lighters and other luxury accessories. The weighty instrument, in glossy red or black lacquer with gold trim, boasts a fanlike profile: rounded on one side, and a flattened triangle on the other to fit firmly between fingertips and not roll off the desk when resting.
CAPITAL MOVES: Rag & Bone, the contemporary collection by designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, today opens its first store outside of New York City, where the label has five stores (plus one in Tokyo), in the Georgetown section of Washington, D.C. Located at 3067 M Street, the space is 1500 square feet and will house the full men’s, women’s and accessories collections
CALVIN’S CANNES DO: Calvin Klein is expected to bring some buzz to the Croisette on Thursday. Timed with the 2011 Cannes Film Festival, the Independent Filmmaker Project, Calvin Klein Collection and Euphoria Calvin Klein are throwing a bash at the beachfront of Hotel Martinez. Co-hosted by Francisco Costa and IFP’s Joana Vicente, the party will honor women who made a mark in independent film — among them Uma Thurman, Rosario Dawson, Jane Campion, Clémence Poésy, Emily Browning, Julia Leigh, Jessica Brentnall, Liza Johnson and Jessica Chastain. Calvin Klein face Lara Stone and Natalia Vodianova, who appears in the Euphoria campaign, will also be on hand.