NOW YOU SEE HIM: Martin Margiela, often called fashion’s invisible man for his refusal to be photographed or interviewed, is about to get another moment in the spotlight: Palais Galliera will dedicate a retrospective to the Belgian designer beginning in March 2018, a spokeswoman for the Paris museum said.
The retired designer has been collaborating with Olivier Saillard, director of the fashion museum, on the show. No further details were immediately available. The news was first reported in French daily Le Figaro’s cultural supplement Figaroscope.
Saillard has frequently spoken of his admiration for Margiela and selected one of his designs, a coat made from blonde wigs from his spring 2009 collection, as one of the exhibits in Palais Galliera’s “Anatomy of a Collection” exhibition, running until Feb. 12.
Margiela began his career in Paris in 1980 as an assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier, launching his own house with a catwalk show in 1984. He quietly made his final exit in 2009 — seven years after Renzo Rosso’s Only the Brave took a majority stake in the house — when the brand became known as Maison Martin Margiela. When John Galliano was installed in 2014, it became Maison Margiela.
Though largely absent from the fashion scene these last few years, Margiela’s spirit looms large, with buzzy designers like Demna Gvasalia citing him as a key influence. Later this year, the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp will host a retrospective focusing on Margiela’s stint as creative director of women’s ready-to-wear at Hermès.
“Margiela: The Hermès Years” is slated to open on March 31 and run through Aug. 27, covering the dozen collections the Belgian designer did from 1997 to 2003.