Paris Insider Addresses: Palace concierge and author Adrian Moore
“The Paris food scene, post-‘bistronomy’ (that word makes me cringe), seems to be particularly vibrant and diverse at the moment, with lots of tiny tables that defy definition and shine with unique personalities,” said Adrian Moore, author of Taschen’s “Inside Chefs’ Fridges.”
One of the restaurant lover’s new hotspots is Mr. T, a pocket-sized Upper Marais eatery founded by Guillaume Guedj, “the discreet and very bright owner of two Michelin star-rated Passage 53,” with Enguerrand Cantegrel and chef Tsuyoshi Miyazaki, respectively, the former head waiter and number-two chef at Passage 53.
“Guillaume travels widely, has an open mind and eats out in lots of exceptional restaurants around the world. Mr. T (a tongue-in-cheek nod not to the A-Team, but to Miyazaki’s nickname) fills a void in the Paris foodie-verse: a cool bolt-hole where you can also eat well and have a good time,” said Moore.
Manning the stove, Miyazaki serves up dishes meant to be shared (think sea bass ceviche and chili pepper jelly, baby squid “tacos” and foie gras “Oreos”) accompanied by excellent mescal and bourbon-based cocktails.
The wine list leans toward biodynamic “and they have a ‘secret’ cellar of stellar bottles if you want to go all gangsta,” said Moore, adding: “Speaking of which, their playlist is exclusively ‘90s French and American hip-hop. Played loud.
“For anyone in need of more convincing, L.A.-based designer Greg Lauren claims they have the best burger in Paris (eat that, Ferdi!),” he added.
Another place that he’s taken a fancy to lately is La Condesa Paris, located on a forgotten street in the city’s 9th arrondissement. “This classy little bistro has superb tasting menus by Mexican transplant Indra Carrillo. Although not yet 30, he has worked in some of the greatest kitchens in the world, such as Enoteca Pinchiorri [in Florence], Noma [in Copenhagen], Pujol [in Mexico City] and in places ranging from Japan to India. Before all this illustrious staging, he’s been cooking since the age of 12.… His food is inventive and subtle, and the tiny dining room was suavely put together by young designer Camille Flammarion. Book in advance to be sure of a table,” said Moore.
His favorite drinking hole in the city is Bugsy’s, located just behind hotel Le Bristol.
“The crowd is pretty much local finance and law people, hotel concierges and sommeliers — think the head butler of the U.K. embassy, the Elysian guard, and even [David] Beckham comes for a pint or two on occasion,” he said. “It’s a great place for a Peroni and (yes) shots of fireball, and the staff and owner are excellent people. The bar food is tops. I first came because of its proximity to my work, but stayed for the charm of the place and people.”
38 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris.
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.
La Condesa Paris
17 Rue Rodier, 75009 Paris.
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and p.m. to 11 p.m.
15 Rue Montalivet, 75008 Paris.
Open daily except Sunday, 12 p.m. to 1 a.m.