Backstage at Jacquemus RTW Spring 2018

SHOW BUSINESS: Soon-to-be-revived heritage brand Poiret figures among the new acts joining Paris Fashion Week, according to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale on Friday.

Under new owner Shinsegae International, the brand will fill the traditional Sunday slot of Céline, which will be presenting its studio-designed collection in a showroom. Newly appointed creative director Hedi Slimane’s debut collection for the house will be shown this fall.

Japan’s Beautiful People, Hong-Kong-based Jourden and France’s Marine Serre, winner of the 2017 edition of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, also feature on the calendar for the first time.

A.P.C., which last March staged its 30th anniversary show as part of the official calendar, is also back. The cult French label will fill Hermès’ usual slot on the Monday, and Beautiful People that of Moncler Gamme Rouge on the Tuesday. The scheduling of the brands whose slots they are filling are yet to be confirmed.

Among brands switching days, meanwhile, Balmain and Olivier Theyskens have both moved over to the Friday, while Thom Browne will be the final show on the Sunday.

Missing in action will be Esteban Cortázar, who is decamping to New York to show as part of NYFW: The Shows for one season at the invitation of Catherine Bennett, senior vice president and managing director of IMG Fashion, with the support of the CFDA. The move represents a comeback for the Colombian-born designer, who started his fashion career in Miami and debuted his first collection in New York in 2002.

Two full days worth of shows — Tuesday and Saturday — are still missing from the Paris calendar.

Paris Fashion Week will run from Feb. 26 to March 6, with Jacquemus holding the opening slot on the Monday night.

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