WINDOW ON WOOL: After its September run at La Galleria on London’s Pall Mall, “Wool Modern,” an exhibit celebrating 21st-century fashion and design in wool, moved into its second venue: The eight main windows of Galeria Kaufhof on Alexanderplatz in Berlin. The Campaign for Wool, the global initiative under the patronage of the Prince of Wales which aims to raise public consciousness, appreciation and consumption of wool, organized the project.
Curated by Charlotte Lurot and on view through Oct. 15, “Wool Modern” features a mix of established and new designers and contemporary and archive pieces, such as a rare 1973 Courréges tunic, Vivienne Westwood’s Prince Charming Wool coat, Thierry Mugler’s 1993/94 jacquard catsuit and David Koma’s 2009/10 brass embellished dress for Beyoncé. Wool home objects are also on display.
In recent years, wool has been an unprofitable business for the world’s sheep farmers, who’ve had to spend more to shear their sheep than the wool clip brought in. But things are looking up, Johann Mittermayr, Woolmark country manager told WWD.
Wool prices have risen, and there are new segments like active sportswear and baby wear where wool, particularly merino, is gaining ground. Then too, he noted fashion is having a “strong nature trend” which supports this most natural of materials. Nonetheless, wool is and will remain a select fiber. “Wool only represents 2 percent of global fiber demand, and if that went up to just 5 percent, we couldn’t fill consumption,” he pointed out.