Tsumori Chisato RTW Fall 2018

TIME TRAVELS: Tsumori Chisato rolled it all in one, throwing a party to celebrate her 25th anniversary book and presenting her fall collection in a cheerful two-floor space in the Marais neighborhood in Paris. Her label is actually a few years older than 25, but it took a bit longer to get the book finished. The decades have flown, noted the active Japanese designer, known for her extensive travels.

“It feels very short, time is so fast,” she said.

Upstairs was a retrospective of her pieces; a dress worn by Vanessa Paradis on the front of a magazine sat in one corner. Another dress had a large owl embroidered on the front, stitched with yarn: “From my travels to Sweden,” Chisato said.

In the next room, a fan from Italy flipped through the book, published by Rizzoli and written by Chisato and Helena Christensen. She discovered an image of the dress she was wearing in the book, and pointed it out to Chisato, catching looks from other guests who were surprised to hear the blonde woman speak Japanese. “We’ve been friends for years, I know her from Rome,” Chisato explained.

Guests nibbled on wasabi and pea hummus and wandered around the space, which was livened up with projections of cheerful market scenes and animations drawn by the designer. Printed cartoon images were animated with blinking lights. Chisato also inserted the lights into headpieces for her fall collection. She had traveled to Guatemala for the season, and played with the colorful fabrics she found there, making the interesting headpieces out of rolled up strips of felt. There were also colorful, silky dresses, various black-and-white motifs and a sculptured yellow coat made of a stiff wool fabric and wet suit material.

“It looks a Pierre Cardin, because I like him,” she smiled.

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