Hitchcock heroines, Studio 54 girls and the Wicked Witch of the West were some of the women evoked by London collections as the fall season continued.
Giles: There was a Seventies disco vibe to this rich, ultrafeminine collection that featured miles of suede fringe, amber crystal embellishments and glistening sequins. Giles Deacon worked olive gray suede into flapper dresses with ruffled hems and fringe details or into tight bodices on evening numbers. He sprinkled sequins large and small on T-shirt dresses, A-line skirts and sleeveless shifts, including black spangles shaped to look like cartoonish eyes. Amber-colored stones spilled down the front of a white gown reminiscent of Halston's designs, while patches of red tulle cascaded over a bright red ballgown. For the past few seasons, Deacon has been on a roll, and he shows no signs of stopping. His work is worlds beyond that of most of his London contemporaries.
Luella: Park your broomsticks at the door. Although Luella Bartley's heroine was more Wicked Witch of the West than Sixties-perfect Samantha Stephens of "Bewitched," there were plenty of great looks, including black bell-sleeve coats and full-skirted dresses in coal tones inset with gold. And when she wasn't trawling around the land of Oz, Bartley was visiting the Tyrol. Some of her minidresses and short wool toggle coats featured subtle embroidery in an edelweiss pattern, while smocking details and colored embroidery wound their way around dresses' hemlines.
Gareth Pugh: Gareth Pugh's show suggested a confab between Genghis Khan, "Predator" and "The Wizard of Oz," and, believe it or not, it worked a treat. Sculpted, armorlike jackets and skirts were made entirely of zippers and worn over matching leggings, while sweater dresses came covered in thousands of glittering safety pins. The designer used goatskin — in all its long, black hairy splendor — for voluminous circle skirts and the shoulders of zip-front dresses and molded python into rounded shapes for the bottoms of skirts and sleeves. All in all, it was a dark, savage — and beautifully executed — fantasy.
Asprey: Hakan Rosenius' ultraluxe collection, inspired by Hitchcock heroines, was packed with goodies for Bond Street princesses — and their Manhattan and Moscow counterparts. There were vanilla bouclé suits with short, swingy jackets; neat, quilted leather trenches in shades of silvery copper, and chunky Mongolian lamb jackets. Some looks had sparkling flourishes, too, among them black-and-white tweed suits pavéd in sequins.Vivienne Westwood Red Label: This commercial collection was last shown on the London runways in the mid-Nineties and, according to the Westwood camp, it's here to stay at future fashion weeks. For all her eccentricities — and there are many — Vivienne Westwood is well versed in the sort of clothes that put money in the bank. She sent out corset dresses with pencil skirts and her trademark draping along with punk-inspired silhouettes such as oversize T-shirt dresses, HotPants worn with torn fishnets and slouchy tartan waistcoats paired with tailored skirts. There was a Seventies glam-rock current running through the collection, too, with suede jackets trimmed in pink sheepskin, chunky stacked heels and jersey dresses with printed checks. And, because woman cannot live by fashion alone, there was a typically Westwood-esque appeal in the show notes to free the prisoners of Guantánamo.
Erdem: A Garden of Eden's worth of floral prints bloomed across Erdem Moralioglu's satin and chiffon dresses, but the designer's flowers were far from cloying. In fact, he gave his prints a techno twist, blurring green and red blossoms and insects, and quilting pastel green leaves and flowers onto the full, floor-sweeping skirts of Empire-line dresses. Some of the more structured pieces, however, such as funnel-neck satin jackets and pouf-sleeve satin dresses, felt cumbersome. A collection of trenchcoats, one in contrasting khaki and black, provided an elegant counterpoint.
Antoni & Alison: In typically theatrical fashion, Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts staged a tea party for their fall collection at a Georgian mansion, complete with World War II-era touches that included a vintage portrait of Queen Elizabeth II on the wall — with a mustache drawn on — "God Save the Queen" blasting on the stereo and an old-fashioned torch-lit stage for a runway. After a trumpet fanfare, the collection of Forties-style silhouettes was unveiled: full or pencil skirts in distinctively patterned tweed, boatneck silk party dresses cinched at the waist and sweet reindeer-emblazoned sweaters.
Issa: Daniella Helayel's gal is never far from the disco floor, and this season she's dressing the part to perfection. It doesn't matter that Studio 54 is history. Its spirit lives on in Helayel's fluid, halterneck gowns in magenta jersey and animal-print chiffon; her glittery green and gold ponchos, and vertiginous suede heels designed by London "It" girl and heiress Charlotte Dellal. But, alas, what to do when the sun comes up? Issa's muse has a day job, too, where she can wear a tailored indigo denim waistcoat with wide-leg jeans, or a few formfitting cotton shift dresses with leopard-print silk scarves knotted at the neck.Mulberry: Mulberry's girl embraced her kooky side in a bright, breezy presentation that showcased the talents of Stuart Vevers and the brand's new footwear designer, Jonathan Kelsey. The ready-to-wear collection was eye-poppingly bright, with vast, shaggy, lipstick-red Tibetan lambskin coats; lemon yellow minidresses, and rhubarb-toned, fake fur bomber jackets. Shrunken, charcoal-colored cashmere cardigans worn over bright minidresses offered an essential bit of contrast. Bags came in a rainbow of shades, too: There were tangerine patent clutches; royal blue ponyskin shoulder bags and oversize lizard holdalls in raspberry and bright blue. There was some bold footwear from Kelsey, including flat, lace-up shoes in fuchsia suede and sexy knee-high riding boots.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews