Avant-garde design is alive and well and living in Paris. In fact, it's evolving, with new, darker colors, along with distinctive tailoring and patterns.
Junya Watanabe: In what qualified as a truly graceful mood swing, Junya Watanabe traded in spring's buoyant spirit for a sober take on the same sartorial principles: draping and, of course, asymmetry. It began with a shift in color, from candy-hued cottons to wool jerseys in heathered shades of gray, slate, navy blue and black that were stretched into long, languid silhouettes. Each look came serene and unfettered, aside from the draping, which ranged from a simple tuck or twist to grander gestures of complicated curves and winding seams. There were cardigan versions, fur-trimmed bib dresses and roomy cocoons that funneled into an elegant column skirt. Later on, he switched modes to tailored looks designed within the somber-slim parameters. Classic glen plaid and houndstooth were made avant on twisted blazers worn with floor-length stretch skirts. The look was almost entirely covered up, even restricting at times, as in capelike waistcoats that bound the arms to the body and slim skirts made into pants thanks to a crotch and cuffs just above the ankles. All those lanky shapes and brooding colors, topped with face-masking stretch turbans, made for a dramatic melancholy — a beautiful one. And if it got repetitive, save for the welcome burst of color in a few pretty floral looks, that's just Watanabe working endless possibilities into a singular vision.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)