Pretty is as pretty does. Unfussy florals, bold-hued motifs and chunky knits are just a few of the go-to items for fall's ultracool sophisticate.
Brian Reyes: For fall, Brian Reyes showed a more grown-up side to his ladylike fare. He did away with the short and poufy frocks of seasons past in favor of more sophisticated silhouettes — linear silk shirtdresses and blouses belted over full skirts — that resulted in increased cross-generational appeal. Color and texture are two of Reyes' consistent strengths that he uses to spice up his uptown staples: Vibrant silk moiré in magenta and cobalt blue added depth to otherwise classic trenchcoats and pencil skirts. T-back cutouts on printed dresses also added a level of interest. While not everything was successful, a little experimental imperfection is endearing.
Behnaz Sarafpour: Textiles are Behnaz Sarafpour's true love, and her best collections have merged her eye for fabrics with inventive design twists. This time around, she looked to mid-20th-century artist Sonia Delaunay for inspiration, drawing on Delaunay's "bold colors and geometric shapes." Indeed, Sarafpour infused the lineup of short shifts, tops and jackets with a strong palette — a black wool top got a bright yellow stripe across the middle; a black Lurex dress, purple patterning — but the impact was more dull than daring. The true standouts displayed her unique way with fabrics. A floral-print silk dress, with pintucking at the hips creating an hourglass shape, had just the right amount of edge, as did three charming cocktail dresses, ruffled in ever-so-slightly frayed silk.
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti played mix master in her latest presentation, set in the cavernous Eyebeam Gallery. While contrasting a tomboyish element with a more feminine, romantic strain — tweed pants and a slouchy wool coat coupled with a filmy beaded top, for instance — she also combined a bevy of fabrics. To wit, one particularly alluring dress was spliced together from panels of lace and velvet. "The women of today have the freedom to show anything's possible," said Ferretti, noting that ample layering was central to her sensibility. She also worked in a transparency motif, one which gave her typically charming dresses a dose of boudoir vamp.
G-Star Raw: There are few certainties in fashion, but hard-edged, experimental denim and a moving runway at G-Star are two of them. So out came the jeans all dark and slim, this season paired with a sweeping puffer coat with its sleeves lopped off, or with chunky knits worn on their own or added to the bottom half of a long denim coat. Sure, the ski mask-hat combos were creepy, but designer Pierre Morisset has always been one for drama. In fact, Dennis Hopper closed the show scooting down the runway while reciting Rudyard Kipling's "If" to the crowd.
Barbara Tfank: Barbara Tfank's Carlyle Hotel runway locale suited her well — she's got the 10021 market cornered. Her clients are supremely tony and turned out, and for fall, Tfank gave them plenty to keep their wardrobes brimming. Cases in point: the unfussy sheath staples, one with a breezy trapeze back, and some perfectly prim Fifties-inspired frocks in a palette of rich brocades, jewel-tone purples and emerald greens. The real news here, however, was the coats; they came chicly quilted, belted, pleated or decked out with floral motifs of the chrysanthemum and lotus variety.
Matthew Williamson: Staying true to his ethnic hippie sensibility, Matthew Williamson delivered plenty of attention-grabbing frocks, luxe furs and country-cozy knitwear that will probably please the deep-pocketed young things who adore him. For fall, he also toyed with Mexican motifs, spicing up black silk georgette with Technicolor floral embellishments, and working the south-of-the-border vibe on rainbow tweeds and rose-embroidered necklines. When he veered into Day-Glo knits and metallic outerwear, though, Williamson lost some momentum. For example, that pixelated floral-print column dress would have looked best without the fur-trimmed parka.
Nanette Lepore: No surprises at Nanette Lepore, whose consistently retro take on pencil skirts, pretty blouses and flirty dresses has won her a loyal following. Familiar motifs abounded, as with lingerie-esque lace panels on tweed and silk dresses, and high-waisted tulip skirts in wine hues. A Fifties shape is always appealing, but Lepore ought to explore another side of sexy, as she did with a plum knit halter dress that clung to all the right curves. While there's nothing wrong with treading the same path, it would be nice if the designer ventured into more innovative territory.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews