Pretty is as pretty does. Unfussy florals, bold-hued motifs and chunky knits are just a few of the go-to items for fall's ultracool sophisticate.
Brian Reyes: For fall, Brian Reyes showed a more grown-up side to his ladylike fare. He did away with the short and poufy frocks of seasons past in favor of more sophisticated silhouettes — linear silk shirtdresses and blouses belted over full skirts — that resulted in increased cross-generational appeal. Color and texture are two of Reyes' consistent strengths that he uses to spice up his uptown staples: Vibrant silk moiré in magenta and cobalt blue added depth to otherwise classic trenchcoats and pencil skirts. T-back cutouts on printed dresses also added a level of interest. While not everything was successful, a little experimental imperfection is endearing.
Behnaz Sarafpour: Textiles are Behnaz Sarafpour's true love, and her best collections have merged her eye for fabrics with inventive design twists. This time around, she looked to mid-20th-century artist Sonia Delaunay for inspiration, drawing on Delaunay's "bold colors and geometric shapes." Indeed, Sarafpour infused the lineup of short shifts, tops and jackets with a strong palette — a black wool top got a bright yellow stripe across the middle; a black Lurex dress, purple patterning — but the impact was more dull than daring. The true standouts displayed her unique way with fabrics. A floral-print silk dress, with pintucking at the hips creating an hourglass shape, had just the right amount of edge, as did three charming cocktail dresses, ruffled in ever-so-slightly frayed silk.
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti played mix master in her latest presentation, set in the cavernous Eyebeam Gallery. While contrasting a tomboyish element with a more feminine, romantic strain — tweed pants and a slouchy wool coat coupled with a filmy beaded top, for instance — she also combined a bevy of fabrics. To wit, one particularly alluring dress was spliced together from panels of lace and velvet. "The women of today have the freedom to show anything's possible," said Ferretti, noting that ample layering was central to her sensibility. She also worked in a transparency motif, one which gave her typically charming dresses a dose of boudoir vamp.
G-Star Raw: There are few certainties in fashion, but hard-edged, experimental denim and a moving runway at G-Star are two of them. So out came the jeans all dark and slim, this season paired with a sweeping puffer coat with its sleeves lopped off, or with chunky knits worn on their own or added to the bottom half of a long denim coat. Sure, the ski mask-hat combos were creepy, but designer Pierre Morisset has always been one for drama. In fact, Dennis Hopper closed the show scooting down the runway while reciting Rudyard Kipling's "If" to the crowd.
Barbara Tfank: Barbara Tfank's Carlyle Hotel runway locale suited her well — she's got the 10021 market cornered. Her clients are supremely tony and turned out, and for fall, Tfank gave them plenty to keep their wardrobes brimming. Cases in point: the unfussy sheath staples, one with a breezy trapeze back, and some perfectly prim Fifties-inspired frocks in a palette of rich brocades, jewel-tone purples and emerald greens. The real news here, however, was the coats; they came chicly quilted, belted, pleated or decked out with floral motifs of the chrysanthemum and lotus variety.
Matthew Williamson: Staying true to his ethnic hippie sensibility, Matthew Williamson delivered plenty of attention-grabbing frocks, luxe furs and country-cozy knitwear that will probably please the deep-pocketed young things who adore him. For fall, he also toyed with Mexican motifs, spicing up black silk georgette with Technicolor floral embellishments, and working the south-of-the-border vibe on rainbow tweeds and rose-embroidered necklines. When he veered into Day-Glo knits and metallic outerwear, though, Williamson lost some momentum. For example, that pixelated floral-print column dress would have looked best without the fur-trimmed parka.
Nanette Lepore: No surprises at Nanette Lepore, whose consistently retro take on pencil skirts, pretty blouses and flirty dresses has won her a loyal following. Familiar motifs abounded, as with lingerie-esque lace panels on tweed and silk dresses, and high-waisted tulip skirts in wine hues. A Fifties shape is always appealing, but Lepore ought to explore another side of sexy, as she did with a plum knit halter dress that clung to all the right curves. While there's nothing wrong with treading the same path, it would be nice if the designer ventured into more innovative territory.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)