Bollywood star Esha Gupta walking for designer Amit Aggarwal at Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2017.
MUMBAI – The five-day Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Winter Festive 2017, which ended last week, focused on themes that included sustainability, recycling and a mix of materials.“Purity” was a high form of praise this season — the word referencing the use of more indigenous textiles, of craft, as well as simple cuts. Capturing this was Sanjay Garg, whose show at the opulent and refurbished Opera House was the opening day finale.With the grandiose location, the scene was set for the days that followed – bringing a certain glamour to more socially responsible and organic concepts. Notable among these was the pairing of five master craftsmen with five young designers in a show called #CraftIsCool by Paramparik Karigar. As younger designers have been adopting Western silhouettes and more form-fitting fabrics, it was a nudge toward keeping tradition at the forefront.Another interesting collaboration was between the Bihar-based organization Matr and the Australian company Because of Nature, working with the Indian fabric khadi. The handspun fabric has been taken up as a national cause by Prime Minister Narendra Modi, and as Kathryn Williams, founder of Because of Nature, told WWD, “It’s possible to read the emotions of the weaver as you see the fabric.” Using her own knowledge of organic dyeing, she has been creating more breathable outfits for the Australian market, and returned to showcase them in India.Recyling held its own as well; designer Kriti Tula, founder and co-owner of Doodlage, had a series of designs made with upcycled garments using waste materials. “We use leftover fabric,” Tula explained. “What we do pretty much goes against the trend of fast fashion. Since the design is dependent on the material available at that time, each piece is one-of-a-kind. Hence the name Doodlage, which comes from the word doodle. Every doodle has its own character, much like the clothes we make.”Also speaking up against fast fashion were representatives of the Fashion Revolution, associating with LFW for the first time.Suki Dusanj-Lenz, country co-ordinator for Fashion Revolution India, said, “India has a massive recyclability culture which we must celebrate and encourage. Sustainable Fashion Day at the LFW brought many of them together.”“We are saying that sustainability is not just a veneer,” said Gautam Vazirani, fashion curator of IMG Reliance. “The biggest designers are doing it and there are many designers who work solely on this basis. Craft has become a cool story.“Our focus is to give a platform for anyone who works with sustainability. In India we are blessed that we have a huge number of indigenous artisans across the country who are environmentally and socially friendly. The idea is to make a bridge for the artisan with the mainstream industry and to make innovations which are contemporary and relevant for the consumers today, to contribute towards more holistic growth, create more aspirational pride for the artisans, reverse the migration and to open a whole new global market for the products they are making,” he said.Lakme Fashion Week is jointly organized by beauty brand Lakme and IMG Reliance Pvt Ltd, an equal joint venture between Reliance Industries Limited (RIL) and IMG Worldwide (IMG).On the other end of the spectrum, bridal wear was bigger than before, replete with heavy embroidery and a resurgence of color, as seen in Amit Aggarwal’s bridal couture or Nachiket Barve’s foray into bridal wear, inspired by Greek goddesses.Tugging at the heart strings was designer Narendra Kumar’s film, “The Marriage of Shayla Patel.” An emotional film focusing on love and family, it divided bridal wear into four parts, each signifying a color – beige, green, blue and red. As the film, which the designer directed, played in the background, models representing the characters walked the runway, showcasing designs for the entire family, making a social comment, and drawing more than a few tears for the relationships depicted.There was an ongoing focus on wearability at LFW, as in Ujjwal Dubey’s play with contrasts and separates in the show by his brand Antar Agni, as well as the usual taste for the outlandish and fantastical, none more so than Manish Arora’s showing of his collection from Paris Fashion Week. The show in the Palladium mall featured models walking up and down the moving escalators.Long jackets remained the biggest fashion statement this season, either embroidered to set off plain designs, with prints that worked over and set off the outfits below, or transparent jacket-coats with large embroidered borders.On the more creative side, Sonakshi Raaj used PVC with embroidery. Her show featured musician Raghav Sachar playing the sax, guitar and flute as the models walked, with some lingering attention to her black dhoti-inspired sari with a matching crop top and PVC , and the sequined jumpsuit-gown in gold.Manish Malhotra’s finale was his first play with black, and his collection titled “Tales of Indulgence” was his most sensual yet, one that encapsulated his description of “a younger, global fashion-lover,” with corsets, crystals, sequins, tassels and glamour being key.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty