This is no season for wallflowers. Designers are strutting their stuff with striking shapes and distinctive embellishments.
Aquascutum: Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler sent out a collection that focused on the coat in all of its peacock splendor. This isn't outerwear for the faint of heart, but for the drama queen brooding inside every woman. The big, bold collection included trenches with pouf sleeves, nipped waists and oversize collars; long, slim military-inspired numbers, and sexy black frock coats with oversize lapels. Herz and Fidler said that their aim was to capture the heart of the brand. May the beat go on.
Edward Sexton: Fed up with the ultraskinny, sprayed-on silhouettes on the runways, celebrated British tailor Edward Sexton, who made his reputation on Savile Row, decided to strut his own sartorial stuff during London Fashion Week. Sexton, whose clients have included Bianca Jagger, Nancy Reagan and Jackie Onassis, and who taught Stella McCartney her tailoring techniques, showed a sleek, stylish collection. It was filled with slim, double-breasted cashmere overcoats nipped at the waist, fluid belted dresses with cutout fronts and chili-pepper red velvet suits with a sultry appeal. His inspiration, he said, was timeless elegance, and this season he hit a bull's-eye.
Paul Smith: Paul Smith crisscrossed the Channel for fall to give his very English rose some Parisian spice. And while his take on French dressing didn't always hit the mark — see the skinny mustard dresses with peekaboo crinolines — there was more than enough to inspire his fan base. Smith sent out high-waisted dresses and neat frock coats in a mouthwatering shade of chocolate; boxy, waffle-knit gray sweaters and striped tops for those Saturday mornings spent with a few Gauloises, and fluid, wide-legged trousers worn with shrunken knits, fit for a rainy afternoon at the Musée d'Orsay.
Louise Goldin: Goldin gave her knits a clever technical spin for fall, with pixilated images and luxe details. Gray cashmere skater skirts were adorned with what appeared to be little intarsia arrows, but which instead were pixilated squares in peach, coral and mint. Blue Swarovski crystals were fashioned into a pattern resembling a circuit board for tight wool tops, while colored stripes — echoing computer bar codes — decorated navy wool leggings.Christopher Kane: Kane has swapped his rock-chick muse for a more whimsical gal who doesn't mind a few sparkles on her woolly sweaters. This polished collection was a study in contrasts: chunky sequins — the size of half dollars — winked from fluttery flapper dresses, while silver beads and chain embroidery snaked their way over Aran knits.
Marios Schwab: Schwab still hasn't lifted his gaze from the human body. His neck-to-ankle, form-fitting bodystocking dresses — so tight that models tiptoed across, rather than stalked, the runway — added an ultralean silhouette to the designer's body-conscious repertoire. But the best of Schwab's dresses were made from delicate jersey, laser-cut into the outlines of William Morris prints, and layered over barely discernable pornographic images.
Emma Cook: Emma Cook returned to the runway after a two-season break with a charming collection that combined folk, Gothic and military references. The designer experimented with fabrics, working tie-dyed rubber and heavily embellished tie-dyed jersey into dresses ideal for an edgy Tinkerbell. Crystal-encrusted lace patchwork and Lurex fringing created an overall shimmering effect, a fitting contrast to the collection's muted camouflage color palette.
Duro Olowu: Olowu's garden of color and print was in full bloom, although the collection was leaner and more polished than in past seasons. Chocolate-and-white ikat patterns spilled over sleek jersey tunic dresses, while giant pink-and-blue roses popped up on navy silk palazzo pants. Among his standout pieces was a cocoon-shaped opera coat covered in a clashing red-and-green leopard print made entirely from shimmering metal studs.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye