This is no season for wallflowers. Designers are strutting their stuff with striking shapes and distinctive embellishments.
Aquascutum: Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler sent out a collection that focused on the coat in all of its peacock splendor. This isn't outerwear for the faint of heart, but for the drama queen brooding inside every woman. The big, bold collection included trenches with pouf sleeves, nipped waists and oversize collars; long, slim military-inspired numbers, and sexy black frock coats with oversize lapels. Herz and Fidler said that their aim was to capture the heart of the brand. May the beat go on.
Edward Sexton: Fed up with the ultraskinny, sprayed-on silhouettes on the runways, celebrated British tailor Edward Sexton, who made his reputation on Savile Row, decided to strut his own sartorial stuff during London Fashion Week. Sexton, whose clients have included Bianca Jagger, Nancy Reagan and Jackie Onassis, and who taught Stella McCartney her tailoring techniques, showed a sleek, stylish collection. It was filled with slim, double-breasted cashmere overcoats nipped at the waist, fluid belted dresses with cutout fronts and chili-pepper red velvet suits with a sultry appeal. His inspiration, he said, was timeless elegance, and this season he hit a bull's-eye.
Paul Smith: Paul Smith crisscrossed the Channel for fall to give his very English rose some Parisian spice. And while his take on French dressing didn't always hit the mark — see the skinny mustard dresses with peekaboo crinolines — there was more than enough to inspire his fan base. Smith sent out high-waisted dresses and neat frock coats in a mouthwatering shade of chocolate; boxy, waffle-knit gray sweaters and striped tops for those Saturday mornings spent with a few Gauloises, and fluid, wide-legged trousers worn with shrunken knits, fit for a rainy afternoon at the Musée d'Orsay.
Louise Goldin: Goldin gave her knits a clever technical spin for fall, with pixilated images and luxe details. Gray cashmere skater skirts were adorned with what appeared to be little intarsia arrows, but which instead were pixilated squares in peach, coral and mint. Blue Swarovski crystals were fashioned into a pattern resembling a circuit board for tight wool tops, while colored stripes — echoing computer bar codes — decorated navy wool leggings.Christopher Kane: Kane has swapped his rock-chick muse for a more whimsical gal who doesn't mind a few sparkles on her woolly sweaters. This polished collection was a study in contrasts: chunky sequins — the size of half dollars — winked from fluttery flapper dresses, while silver beads and chain embroidery snaked their way over Aran knits.
Marios Schwab: Schwab still hasn't lifted his gaze from the human body. His neck-to-ankle, form-fitting bodystocking dresses — so tight that models tiptoed across, rather than stalked, the runway — added an ultralean silhouette to the designer's body-conscious repertoire. But the best of Schwab's dresses were made from delicate jersey, laser-cut into the outlines of William Morris prints, and layered over barely discernable pornographic images.
Emma Cook: Emma Cook returned to the runway after a two-season break with a charming collection that combined folk, Gothic and military references. The designer experimented with fabrics, working tie-dyed rubber and heavily embellished tie-dyed jersey into dresses ideal for an edgy Tinkerbell. Crystal-encrusted lace patchwork and Lurex fringing created an overall shimmering effect, a fitting contrast to the collection's muted camouflage color palette.
Duro Olowu: Olowu's garden of color and print was in full bloom, although the collection was leaner and more polished than in past seasons. Chocolate-and-white ikat patterns spilled over sleek jersey tunic dresses, while giant pink-and-blue roses popped up on navy silk palazzo pants. Among his standout pieces was a cocoon-shaped opera coat covered in a clashing red-and-green leopard print made entirely from shimmering metal studs.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye