PARIS — One of the highlights of the industry fair Mode City here in July was the launch of Silent Assembly, a new high-tech brand created by Kay Cohen. The designer is making a splash with lingerie that features new 3-D technology.
Cohen said she arrived at the idea by studying body-scanning technology that is used to make motion pictures.
“While underwires have given us a lovely shape for the past 20 years that I’ve been in the industry, I have heard women often complain that bras are uncomfortable,” she told WWD. “We are replacing underwires with a structure that is as strong as metal but way more comfortable.”
Two years went into the research and development of what she described as “Curvessence” technology. The 3-D bra utilizes nylon polymers sculpted to conform to a woman’s torso and remembers its shape over time, which means it slowly returns to its original form if mildly distorted.
“We have made a massive breakthrough in that area. We see it as a potential replacement of all underwires in the future,” explained Cohen, who recently inked a deal with a major Australian retailer to use the technology for its private-label offerings. She declined to reveal the name of the retailer.
As general manager of New Zealand’s intimate apparel manufacturer Bendon Group, Cohen spearheaded the development of the Elle Macpherson Intimates line. Cohen subsequently founded Pleasure State, which was sold at specialty boutiques and major stores including Victoria’s Secret. She sold Pleasure State to Bendon in 2010.
Silent Assembly is positioned as an upscale brand and features European fabrics including French leavers lace and tulle, and Italian stretch chiffon.
“The industry is inundated with very hard-core, sexy, strong looks. What gets forgotten is the beautiful prettiness that lingerie is all about,” she observed.
Silent Assembly’s look is a departure from the everyday style of Elle Macpherson Intimates and the fashion-focused positioning of Pleasure State, which is now sold at select Bloomingdale’s units in the U.S.
Silent Assembly has 11 themes, each consisting of four to five pieces, including bras, panties and bodysuits. Prices range from $200 to $250 for bras; $92 to $132 for panties, and around $495 for bodysuits.
Slated for spring delivery, the collection will begin shipping in January. Distribution is aimed at department stores in Europe and the U.S., as well as retailers in Asia and the Middle East. Cohen is initially targeting 87 to 106 doors and plans to add 100 new doors in the future. She expects first-year wholesale sales of $2.1 million, not including the business generated by the proprietary Curvessence technology.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye