PARIS — Puma AG has given WWD a preview of the first looks from its new creative director Hussein Chalayan, the British-based designer known for his innovative use of materials and technology.
Called Urban Mobility, the collection for spring-summer is billed as “fashion sportswear” and accessories for the “modern urban traveler.”
“Urban Mobility is a considered balance between Puma’s technical excellence and my narrative approach to design,” Chalayan stated.
At the heart of the collaboration is Chalayan’s exploration of new technology, which has produced spellbinding runway moments: skirts that opened and folded by remote control, furniture that morphed into clothing and outfits orbited by electric lights.
While not as extreme, the pieces designed for Puma continue Chalayan’s penchant for cutting-edge style combined with function.
A jacket designed with internal compartments in different sizes, which organize travel documents, eliminates the need for a bag. Pants with a removable pouch-shaped pocket ease the stress of emptying pockets in a hurry during security control at the airport.
A long outerwear piece in parachute silk can be worn either as a glamorous dress or a jacket, while utility pants feature a zipper on the lower leg, allowing a switch from skinny to fuller legs in a matter of seconds. Footwear with elevated wedge heels adds a feminine edge to the comfort and flexibility of sneakers.
Luxurious shapes and fabrics are predominant throughout the collection, with a palette of black on black spiked with bright colors, plus a contrast of matte and glossy textures.
Retail prices will start at 35 euros, or $50 at current exchange rates, for a T-shirt, rising to 120 euros, or $169, for knitwear and reaching 250 euros, or $353, for the most expensive outerwear item. The Urban Mobility collection will be manufactured in Europe and in the Far East.
The collection is slated to reach stores in February with a related advertising campaign.
Chalayan joined Puma in February 2008, when the German company also acquired a majority stake in his signature fashion brand.
Puma, which is majority-owned by French luxury-to-retail group PPR, has a successful track record of previous collaborations with designers, including Jil Sander for footwear in 1998, yogawear with former model Christy Turlington’s Nuala range in 2000 and a collaboration with the interior and product designer Philippe Starck in 2004. Alexander McQueen, another designer in the PPR stable, also worked with Puma in 2005.
Nonetheless, the arrival of Chalayan marked a new direction at Puma, since he is the first fashion designer to be appointed as creative director of a major sports label in what is envisaged as a long-term collaboration rather than a one-off effort.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)