PARIS — Puma AG has given WWD a preview of the first looks from its new creative director Hussein Chalayan, the British-based designer known for his innovative use of materials and technology.
Called Urban Mobility, the collection for spring-summer is billed as “fashion sportswear” and accessories for the “modern urban traveler.”
“Urban Mobility is a considered balance between Puma’s technical excellence and my narrative approach to design,” Chalayan stated.
At the heart of the collaboration is Chalayan’s exploration of new technology, which has produced spellbinding runway moments: skirts that opened and folded by remote control, furniture that morphed into clothing and outfits orbited by electric lights.
While not as extreme, the pieces designed for Puma continue Chalayan’s penchant for cutting-edge style combined with function.
A jacket designed with internal compartments in different sizes, which organize travel documents, eliminates the need for a bag. Pants with a removable pouch-shaped pocket ease the stress of emptying pockets in a hurry during security control at the airport.
A long outerwear piece in parachute silk can be worn either as a glamorous dress or a jacket, while utility pants feature a zipper on the lower leg, allowing a switch from skinny to fuller legs in a matter of seconds. Footwear with elevated wedge heels adds a feminine edge to the comfort and flexibility of sneakers.
Luxurious shapes and fabrics are predominant throughout the collection, with a palette of black on black spiked with bright colors, plus a contrast of matte and glossy textures.
Retail prices will start at 35 euros, or $50 at current exchange rates, for a T-shirt, rising to 120 euros, or $169, for knitwear and reaching 250 euros, or $353, for the most expensive outerwear item. The Urban Mobility collection will be manufactured in Europe and in the Far East.
The collection is slated to reach stores in February with a related advertising campaign.
Chalayan joined Puma in February 2008, when the German company also acquired a majority stake in his signature fashion brand.
Puma, which is majority-owned by French luxury-to-retail group PPR, has a successful track record of previous collaborations with designers, including Jil Sander for footwear in 1998, yogawear with former model Christy Turlington’s Nuala range in 2000 and a collaboration with the interior and product designer Philippe Starck in 2004. Alexander McQueen, another designer in the PPR stable, also worked with Puma in 2005.
Nonetheless, the arrival of Chalayan marked a new direction at Puma, since he is the first fashion designer to be appointed as creative director of a major sports label in what is envisaged as a long-term collaboration rather than a one-off effort.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)