PARIS — Lingerie and swimwear trade show Mode City celebrated its 30th anniversary with a well-being theme and an outdoor area open to the public — the first time the event has been open to nontrade visitors.
Despite this, visitor numbers at Mode City, which ran from July 6 to 9 here, were flat at 15,330, while figures at sister Interfilière textile fair, fell 3.3 percent to 11,054, according to show organizer Eurovet.
Even though there was a 7 percent increase in French visitors, many exhibitors bemoaned a lack of traffic at the show, and buyers admitted that business continues to be difficult.
“We’re focusing on trends rather than looking for new brands,” said Nicky Clayton, senior buyer for lingerie, hosiery, beach boutique and sleepwear at House of Fraser.
“We’re in the process of streamlining our offer,” she continued. “In the U.K., at the moment, ladies are looking for value for money and sticking to the brands they know. It’s a difficult time for emerging brands.”
Kristiina Norppa-Porkola, category manager at Finnish department store chain Sokos, mirrored that sentiment.
“We are not taking so many risks, and concentrating on brands and articles that are sure. The standard has to be much higher for new brands,” she said.
“It’s been a pretty dismal, sad summer,” noted Inna Gerchikov, brands director at Whiskey & Soda, which distributes U.S. lingerie label Hanky Panky in select European markets. “It’s been a storm, between the European economic climate and the weather.”
Nevertheless, many brands were using the show as a launch platform.
New exhibitors accounted for 140 of the 500 at Mode City, while at Interfilière, 40 new companies were present.
“The offer has never been so rich,” Interfilière show director Laurence Nérée said.
Highlights at Interfilière included a lace forum presenting the techniques available for Calais lace, as well as forum presenting various finishing techniques.
The former is intended to help retailers “understand the interest of paying a little more for fabrics, so that they can communicate this to consumers,” said Marie-Laure Bellon-Homps, Eurovet’s chief executive officer.
She announced the creation of a new event, Riviera by Mode City, to be held in Cannes, France, Sept. 8 and 9 in order to allow retailers from the South of France, which represent 50 percent of the country’s swimwear market, to place orders later in the year.
In terms of trends, many brands were offering larger bra cup sizes, particularly in designs targeting younger consumers, like Chantelle’s reinforced cup Mutine model, which starts in a D cup and retails at 65 euros, or $83.47. It’s lower than the brand’s typical price point.
Coral was a strong theme for spring 2014 and was visible in many brand selections across lingerie, swimwear and loungewear.
These included Swiss company Zimmerli, which was presenting its new brand identity and whose offer for spring included coral washed silk pants. Suggested retail is 345 euros, or $443.
French brand Chantelle expanded its swimwear label, which sells at an average retail price of 110 euros, or $141. The brand previously offered only a short swimwear collection in Orcanta stores, also owned by Groupe Chantelle.
Meanwhile, the fetish trend highlighted as part of Mode City’s forum was a key theme in Chantal Thomass’ spring 2014 collection, inspired by the Napoleonic period. These included a quirky Cachotière shirt-topped bra with capped sleeves, retailing at about 200 euros, or $256.
The brand will be putting an increased focus on the U.S. market starting with its spring 2014 collections, according to a spokeswoman. Chantal Thomass was acquired by Groupe Chantelle two years ago.
Supplier Invista Inc. announced the expansion of its Lycra Beauty label to two new categories — lace and natural fabrics.
“The new applications in lace and natural fabrics like cotton will allow us to expand Lycra Beauty,” said Invista’s global segment leader for lingerie and bodywear Arnaud Ruffin.
Lycra Beauty doubled its presence last year, and is targeting 10 percent growth in 2013, said Ruffin.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye