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MILAN — The latest outerwear brand to believe that quilted nylon and silk flower appliqués belong together is the Tod’s Group-owned Fay, which has tapped Giles Deacon as its chief designer.
Fay’s chairman, Andrea Della Valle, and Deacon today will unveil a capsule collection of some 25 sartorial pieces, alongside a more basic lineup. The Fay presentation will take place at the Pavilion of Contemporary Art where the Tod’s brand normally shows its new collections but this season will do so in its newly refurbished store.
“We courted Deacon for a while because we believed he could give Fay a more international appeal and a sexier and more feminine look,” said Della Valle. “Fay is a brand that is attentive to fashion but that isn’t overshadowed by trends.”
Deacon was impressed by the group’s production facilities in the Marche region. “I want Fay to be sporty couture with a mix of technical fabrics and feminine details so that you can wear the same jacket over jeans on a shopping spree or for a night outing,” the designer said.
Nylon, velvet, cashmere and asphalt gray denim, at times quilted, are Deacon’s top fabric choices, shaped as slim peacoats, puffy jackets and trenchcoats. The details that make the difference are ruffled hems, chain-link motifs and handmade silk duchesse flowers strewn around the neck. Silk and cotton polo shirts, blouses, skirts and pants complete the offerings.
Colors include black, army green and midnight blue, brightened up with shots of fuchsia. Retail prices for the outerwear range from $1,600 to $2,330, skirts and pants retail from $365 to $511 and tops go from $175 to 292.
Known for its four-hook closure firefighter jackets, Fay is an American brand the Della Valle brothers acquired in the early Eighties. Outside Italy, it has found success in the U.S., where it has a corner in Barneys New York, and also in Germany, Russia, France and Great Britain.
Della Valle plans to open four to five flagships in European capitals, including Rome this year and London and Paris over the next three years, and to secure some 150 wholesale doors worldwide the first year. Fay currently has stores in Milan and Naples.