FLORENCE — As temperatures soared outside, the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show kept it cool with an eclectic mix of sportswear and tailoring elements. An unusually subdued color palette expressed in prints and innovative fabrics impressed retailers, who were also hot about the prospects for the men’s wear business.
“Prints are very strong and very fancy this season,” observed Hirofumi Kurino, chief creative adviser of United Arrows, noting that they were a good addition to the upper market. “They are seen not only on shirts, but on jackets and trousers, and they sell very well. In Japan, prints were already in demand two to three years ago. It was about time that Europe and the U.S. follow suit.”
Kurino pointed to the comic prints at Gitman Vintage as among the highlights, but said “the most advanced trend is dark color.” “It’s very refreshing to see black being used for summer. Not the 1990s black-black, but made contemporary in lighter shades on linen or cotton with washed effects,” he said.
“Colors are a lot more subtle this season,” agreed Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager at Printemps. “This along with more fitted silhouettes, hidden details and a move away from logos, adds more chic to the collections….We also see a lot of jackets worn with T-shirts instead of shirts for a more casual attitude.”
Take Camoshita, for example. The Japanese up-and-coming brand designed by United Arrows’ Yasuto Kamoshita struck a contemporary note between luxe and casual and scooped the Pitti Uomo Award 2013, collecting laurels for its unique print and textile blends.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast