FLORENCE — As temperatures soared outside, the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show kept it cool with an eclectic mix of sportswear and tailoring elements. An unusually subdued color palette expressed in prints and innovative fabrics impressed retailers, who were also hot about the prospects for the men’s wear business.
“Prints are very strong and very fancy this season,” observed Hirofumi Kurino, chief creative adviser of United Arrows, noting that they were a good addition to the upper market. “They are seen not only on shirts, but on jackets and trousers, and they sell very well. In Japan, prints were already in demand two to three years ago. It was about time that Europe and the U.S. follow suit.”
Kurino pointed to the comic prints at Gitman Vintage as among the highlights, but said “the most advanced trend is dark color.” “It’s very refreshing to see black being used for summer. Not the 1990s black-black, but made contemporary in lighter shades on linen or cotton with washed effects,” he said.
“Colors are a lot more subtle this season,” agreed Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager at Printemps. “This along with more fitted silhouettes, hidden details and a move away from logos, adds more chic to the collections….We also see a lot of jackets worn with T-shirts instead of shirts for a more casual attitude.”
Take Camoshita, for example. The Japanese up-and-coming brand designed by United Arrows’ Yasuto Kamoshita struck a contemporary note between luxe and casual and scooped the Pitti Uomo Award 2013, collecting laurels for its unique print and textile blends.
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