PARIS —An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx are looking to relight their creative fire with a change of strategy based on discontinuing their ready-to-wear line to focus on a bulked-up footwear collection, as a key pillar of their business, as well as special seasonless clothing capsules.Known for their mixes of deconstructed tailoring, military influences — including their signature red cross logo — and feminine lingerie inspirations, the Belgian husband-and-wife duo over the past few seasons has been experimenting with different formats for their namesake label. For spring they opted for a film presentation, then for fall partnered with online showroom Ordre.com to present their collection to buyers followed by a physical presentation of the pieces to press and clients during Paris couture week in July. The handicraft-intensive collection included a bustier ballgown crafted from plastic bags. The designers in February also hired a new chief executive officer, Marie Mys, to allow them to focus on the creative part.“We like the idea of taking the opportunity to make the collections more valuable and precious, to get closer to the client and offer a better service, especially in the challenging wholesale climate,” said Vandevorst.Going forward, the presentation of the brand’s shoe collection, still working with Ordre.com, will be timed with the Paris ready-to-wear calendar, starting this month, and presented on Ordre.com, while the capsule will be presented each couture week in Paris, starting January.A boot from the new A.F. Vandevorst collection.The change in direction, the designers said, was motivated by a desire to revive the creative energy they enjoyed when they first met as students at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Also triggering the decision was the compilation of a 20th-anniversary tome set to launch in Belgium in November, followed by a celebration during Paris couture week in January.“We still are very passionate about what we do and want to have more time to travel, to discover new things. This is a platform that allows us to be more creative and not to have to deal so much with the commercial side of the business,” said Vandevorst, adding that their flagship store in Antwerp will also undergo a makeover to bring it back in line with the brand’s DNA. The brand today counts around 100 stockists worldwide.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)