ENKNYC Traffic was strong, the mood was upbeat and more than 250 brands were packed into the ENKNYC show. “People are really positive. Retailers are looking for new brands and aren’t as price sensitive,” said Vince Gonzales, owner of a showroom that sells the lines Café Bleu, The Stronghold denim and a licensed Steve McQueen T-shirt and sportswear collection.
Key trends at the show included nondenim bottoms, lots of knitwear with details such as toggle closures and outerwear with military details.
“Our price points are in a real sweet spot,” said Matteo Maniatty, director of sales at Original Penguin, showcasing a lamb’s wool sweater program in 12 colors that retails for $79.
Wool outerwear was the strongest seller at CPT by Cockpit USA, where a gray peacoat for $298 was the season’s hot item.
Scott James’ first collection under the brand’s new owners, Hampshire Group, offered an edited selection targeted to the more fashion-forward stores that tend to shop ENKNYC. Soft sport coats with elbow patches, chunky Nordic sweaters, woven shirts and lightweight outerwear were designed to bridge the gap between formal and casualwear.
Victorinox highlighted ripstop vests with a new earth-friendly PrimaLoft Eco fill, along with down-filled bomber jackets and performance knits. At Citizens of Humanity, a new denim with no starch offered the deep, dark look of raw denim with the softness and drape of washed fabrics. Also selling well at the jeansmaker were corduroys, twills and chinos. Over at 4 Stroke, canvas selvage jeans in a variety of colors were standouts, and the brand has a special program of higher-end denim launching at Bergdorf Goodman.
On the accessories end, designer Maor Cohen of M. Cohen has attracted celebrity buzz with his line of “earthy, urban and beachy” leather and silver jewelry for men. The company will open its first store on Third Street in Los Angeles next month.
Project The revamped Project show had a new upscale format, and though traffic was light at times, Project president Andrew Pollard called this season the start of a rebuilding stage for the once-dominant New York show.
“This is a collections-focused show and buyers can really sit and buy a line here,” said David Bruno, director of sales at Spurr, which previously showed at Capsule. Spurr, which is priced 30 to 40 percent lower than designer Simon Spurr’s collection label, showed officer’s coats, shearling jackets and Harris Tweed sport coats, along with its bread-and-butter line of clean, dark denim, which retails from $195 to $275.
The Brooklyn Circus was another standout at the show, with re-imagined varsity jackets, herringbone tweed cargo pants and retro newsboy caps. At Aether, seam-sealed, PrimaLoft-filled jackets with a minimalist aesthetic were ideal for outdoor enthusiasts seeking an elegant solution to staying warm and dry.
Ben Sherman introduced its new upscale Plectrum label, which features high-end fabrics, a discreet guitar-pick logo and prices 40 percent higher than the core collection. The company also pushed its new EC1 chino program (named after its London postal code), which included 12 colors.
Plain Jane Homme — known for its stripper-with-dropped-panties logo — showcased a streetwear line inspired by the colorful Holi festival of India, while Sweden’s WeSC emphasized a bigger push into outerwear, along with strong sales in its sharply priced denim line, which retails for $75 to $125. James Jeans relaunched its men’s business for fall after dropping the collection for a few seasons, with a clean lineup of classic five-pockets and twills and cords. Promising younger brands at the show included Feltraiger and General Assembly, both of which are based in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews