CHARGED WITH THE CHALLENGE OF COPING WITH A fragile economy, erratic weather patterns and reluctant buyers, contemporary is getting practical.
For fall, fabrics trend toward year-round, silhouettes turn simple and dresses lose some of their luster in the minds of cost-cutting manufacturers. Despite the economic implications, this modesty breathes new life into the contemporary and young contemporary markets after seasons of Sixties' overload, unremitting baby-doll frocks and intimidating, for some, skinny pants. Fall's looks, while pared down, are sophisticated, colorful and seasonless — the ideal blueprint, manufacturers hope, for weathering the economic maelstrom.
Contemporary and young contemporary exhibitors arrive with airy fabrics ideal for layering; straight, fitted bodies punched up with pintucks, pleats and shirring; short novelty jackets, and plenty of immediates to address the most cautious buyers.
Fall apparel fell flat at retail last year, due to an almost total absence of true fall weather in many regions, and manufacturers are adjusting accordingly. This season, cold-weather fabrics take a backseat to lightweight knits, silk, chiffon and organza, and heavier coats and jackets are offered sparingly for later deliveries, if at all.
Orion London, a nine-year-old London company, exhibits for the second time with a new crop of lighter fabrics, in addition to its traditional mix of wool and rayon. Sheer chiffon, light silk and soft satin are used on the line's printed tunics, dresses and cardigans, priced $60 to $72 at wholesale.
For fall, 213 Industry, a young contemporary line of tops and dresses, offers chiffon, voile and lace. "We're definitely focusing on seasonless fabrics that you can wear six months a year," said company president Michelle Kim. "Chiffon is the number-one fabric and it can be layered with silk crepe or printed tunics."
The Los Angeles brand also incorporates a cotton and wool fabric into its lineup, but will reserve heavier items such as herringbone jackets and coats for October deliveries, according to Kim, in order to address the unpredictable weather patterns in the South and on the West Coast.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews