CHARGED WITH THE CHALLENGE OF COPING WITH A fragile economy, erratic weather patterns and reluctant buyers, contemporary is getting practical.
For fall, fabrics trend toward year-round, silhouettes turn simple and dresses lose some of their luster in the minds of cost-cutting manufacturers. Despite the economic implications, this modesty breathes new life into the contemporary and young contemporary markets after seasons of Sixties' overload, unremitting baby-doll frocks and intimidating, for some, skinny pants. Fall's looks, while pared down, are sophisticated, colorful and seasonless — the ideal blueprint, manufacturers hope, for weathering the economic maelstrom.
Contemporary and young contemporary exhibitors arrive with airy fabrics ideal for layering; straight, fitted bodies punched up with pintucks, pleats and shirring; short novelty jackets, and plenty of immediates to address the most cautious buyers.
Fall apparel fell flat at retail last year, due to an almost total absence of true fall weather in many regions, and manufacturers are adjusting accordingly. This season, cold-weather fabrics take a backseat to lightweight knits, silk, chiffon and organza, and heavier coats and jackets are offered sparingly for later deliveries, if at all.
Orion London, a nine-year-old London company, exhibits for the second time with a new crop of lighter fabrics, in addition to its traditional mix of wool and rayon. Sheer chiffon, light silk and soft satin are used on the line's printed tunics, dresses and cardigans, priced $60 to $72 at wholesale.
For fall, 213 Industry, a young contemporary line of tops and dresses, offers chiffon, voile and lace. "We're definitely focusing on seasonless fabrics that you can wear six months a year," said company president Michelle Kim. "Chiffon is the number-one fabric and it can be layered with silk crepe or printed tunics."
The Los Angeles brand also incorporates a cotton and wool fabric into its lineup, but will reserve heavier items such as herringbone jackets and coats for October deliveries, according to Kim, in order to address the unpredictable weather patterns in the South and on the West Coast.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)